Keeping Rabbits & Guinea Pigs as Pets

by Dr Heather Johnston

Rabbits (Lagomorphs) and Guinea Pigs (Cavies) are smaller pets with lots of personality.  Although rabbits tend to be more solitary and G. Pigs more social within their own species both of these pets can make excellent family pets. Both species can be litter box trained and because of this are frequently given free roam in a . Because of the natural curiosity and urge to chew we recommend that your pet be confined when not being immediately supervised. Although it is wonderful to allow your pet so much opportunity for exercise, there are many life threatening and costly dangers in our homes. To keep it safe we recommend confining your rabbit or G. pig to a small pet proofed room or a suitable cage while they are not being supervised. Rabbits in particular like to chew on electric cords often with deadly outcomes.

            For most pets a suitable cage is constructed of a sheet metal or hard plastic tray on the bottom with open wire bars or mesh on the sides and top. If you must keep your pet on a wire grate, the feet must be checked daily for injuries or signs of wear from the wire. Most often it is better to keep your pet on shavings (aspen, pine, or paper. DO NOT USE CEDAR as it can aggravate respiratory conditions). Because most animals will flip or quickly soil water bowls, water bottles are more practical. Finally because rabbits and G. pigs in the wild were prey animals, you pet should have an area to hide in. Do not forget to clean this area daily as humidity will build up more quickly due to decreased airflow. This can lead to frequent urinary tract infections, bladder stones, or skin infections.

Diet

            Two of the most common health problems in these pets are obesity and dental disease. Both can be prevented or controlled through proper diet. Feeding hay as a large portion of the diet helps to wear teeth appropriately and provides a low calorie and high fiber diet to support healthy digestion. We recommend the following guidelines for your pet rabbit or g. pig:     

            75% HAY: timothy or mixed/orchard grass. Alfalfa is ok for growing animals but is too high in calcium and protein for most adults.          

            15% PELLET (specific for the species) timothy is preferred to alfalfa.

            10% TREATS: including fruits, vegetables, and seeds or nuts.

1. pigs must receive vitamin C from their diet because their body is unable to make this vitamin. They must be feed pellet designed for g. pigs (vitamin C added). We also recommend supplementing your g. pig with 125 mg of vitamin C daily (½ of pediatric vitamin C chewable tablet daily).

Health Concerns

            Because of the high risk of false pregnancy and uterine cancer we recommend spaying your female rabbit. This can be done anytime after four months of age.  Spaying female and castrating male rabbits frequently decreases undesirable hormone related behavior such as urine marking, mounting, and some biting. Unfortunately these procedures do not always influence rabbit fighting with other rabbits. Because g. pigs are often housed in groups males are routinely castrated if they are to be kept with females. This can be done anytime after four months. Female g. pigs should never be bred for the first time after they are seven months old because their pelvis becomes too rigid to deliver the large giglets (baby g. pigs) safely.  If pregnancy occurs after seven months the g. pig will need a cesarean section to deliver the giglets.

            Both rabbits and g. pigs are prone to develop urinary/bladder stones because of the large amount of calcium normally found in their urine. If an animal is seen straining and not passing urine or feces please contact your veterinarian immediately as this is a medical emergency.

            Because of the unique digestive system found in rabbits and g. pigs avoid giving them milk products (except yogurt sometimes used for its live bacterial cultures) and large amounts of nuts, seeds and foods high in sugars). These foods can cause bloating which  can be a life threatening condition. Owners should recognize bloated animal. An animal suffering from bloat will have a distended stomach (often bulging behind the rib cage), will sit with its neck and head extended up, will push its elbows away from its body (this helps the animal breath easier), and will often teeth grind. It maybe helpful to have pediatric simethacone (a brand name such as gas EX) in your first aid kit to give to a bloating animal after talking to your veterinarian.

            A final health concern for both species is heat stroke. Because neither animal sweat and both animals have large abdomens compared to their surface area they have more trouble cooling themselves. High heat and humidity of south Florida can be difficult for these species to deal with. If your pet accidentally becomes over heated remove them to  cool area immediately. If they are showing signs of loss of consciousness  or bloating go immediately to your veterinarian.

More Information

Owning rabbits and guinea pigs can be a rewarding experience with a little special care on your part. Following is a list of helpful websites:

www.rabbit.org           The American House Rabbit Society

www.acbaonline.com  The American Cavy Breeders Association

www.guinealynx.info/main.html  Guinea Health Linx on line

www.oxbowhay.com  Oxbow Company

www.netvet.wustl.edu/rabbits.htm a list of many rabbit sites

There are at least nine species of toads, which can poison your dog or cat. The only one of real significance in this area (southern Florida) is the one, which will be discussed below. In the summer months local animal emergency clinics receive two or three calls per night with regard to toad poisoning.

A typical animal case report involves a dog or cat that finds a slow hopping toad and mouths the animal playfully. The pet usually experiences immediate salivation and irritation of the mucus membranes of the mouth and throat. If the pet eats the toad or otherwise receives a large quantity to toxin, vomiting, seizures and death may follow in as little as 15 minutes. Even a toad that sits in a dog’s watering dish for some time may leave enough toxin to make the pet ill. Although the toxicity varies considerably by the toad species and its geographic location, the death rate for untreated animals exposed to Cane Toads is nearly 100% in Florida.

This large toad is found in Southern Florida and is seen most frequently during warmer and wetter months of the year. Originally released in Florida’s sugar cane fields in 1935 to help control rats and mice, it is now commonly found in South Florida yards. It breeds year round in standing water, streams, canals and ditches. A female can lay       35, 000 eggs in one season. It lives primarily on roaches, beetles and other large insects. It is rather sluggish, hopping only when bothered or when seeking new feeding grounds…usually in the early evenings. When the toad is threatened, it secretes a highly toxic milky substance from the glands in the back of its head. This secretion will burn eyes, may inflame the skin and can kill dogs and cats if ingested. When a dog or cat bites the toad, the poison enters the animal’s system rapidly through the membranes of the mouth and the effects will be seen almost immediately.

Appearance

Size-adults range in size from 4-9 inches. Color-brown to grayish brown with creamy yellow belly. Glands-parotid glands (large oval protrusions) start at the shoulder and extend down the back.

Symptoms

Degree of development of symptoms and their severity is dependent upon the amount of material absorbed. The basic symptoms are as follows:

1. Profuse salivation (drooling) is seen immediately.
2. Constant head shaking occurs with the salivation.
3. Crying as if in pain may sometimes be noted.
4. Lack of coordination and staggering will occur in moderate intoxication.
5. Inability to stand or walk develops with more serious poisoning.
6. Convulsions and death can occur in very serious cases.

There are several other substances that may affect dogs in a similar manner. Therefore, it is very important to know if at all possible, whether it is likely that exposure to toads of this species have occurred just prior to the onset of symptoms.

First Aid

If you know or strongly suspect that this toad has poisoned your dog or cat, IMMEDIATELY flush out his mouth with water. Rinse the animal’s mouth for approximately five minutes. One way to do this is with a wet washcloth where the water will drain out of the mouth instead of down its throat. An alternative is the use of a garden hose for continuous flow provided you are very careful not to choke or drown the animal. Extreme care should be taken that the animal does not swallow the rinse water.

At present, no medicines commonly found in the home are considered of any value in first aid treatment of this condition. It is important to obtain the services of your veterinarian to give specific antidotes by injection as soon as possible, especially when there is any doubt about how severely poisoned your pet may be. Remember, too, that the smaller the dog or cat, the greater the possibility of serious toxicity. Call your veterinarian as soon as you finish washing the mouth but since many toad poisonings occur in the evening or night time hours, call your nearest animal emergency clinic for assistance.

Names by which this toad is recognized: cane toad, marine toad, giant toad and bufo toad.