With more than 100 million cats and dogs in the United States, and an estimated 25 million Americans who are allergic to them, it is no surprise that there's a whole lot of sneezing going on.
People can develop allergies to any furred animal, including such common pets as dogs, hamsters, gerbils, rabbits, and horses. Cats are rightly blamed for many allergies because cat allergens are especially potent, and because people have such close contact with cats.
Don't Blame the Hair
Allergies are caused by exposure to proteins that are normally present in the animal's saliva or urine, or in secretions from glands in the skin. That's why an allergic person should never clean the pet's litter box. Contrary to popular belief, the animal's hair or dander do not themselves cause allergies, although they do make excellent airborne carriers for the offending proteins. Many experts say there is no good evidence that short-haired animals cause fewer allergies than long-haired, or that one breed is better than another.
Prevention is the Best Treatment
Allergists agree that the best treatment for animal allergies - as for all types of allergy - is avoiding the things that cause allergic reactions. But avoidance need not always mean living without pets, especially if the allergies are moderate. In his recent book, "Taming Asthma and Allergy by Controlling Your Environment", Dr. Robert A. Wood, director of the Pediatric Allergy Clinic at The Johns Hopkins Hospital, offers a simple avoidance strategy for those who have moderate animal allergies but don't want to give up their pets.
Although he recommends that the best tactic for eliminating as many animal allergens from the home as possible is to keep pets outside, this may be difficult in areas where animals cannot be kept comfortably or safely outdoors, or in households where there are already indoor pets.
Recommendations Include:
- Keep the pet outside whenever possible;
- Don't allow in carpeted areas of your home;
- Eliminate carpeting and upholstered furniture as much as possible, especially in your bedroom;
- Keep your bedroom door closed;
- Provide good ventilation;
- Use an air cleaner;
- Leave combing, grooming, and litter box clean up to non-allergic family members;
- Leave dust-intensive cleaning activities, especially vacuuming, to those family members who don't suffer from allergies.
Strategy 1: Avoid Allergen Exposure
Reduce the overall allergen burden in your home by restricting your pet to a non-carped area that is easily cleaned. Keeping the pet out of the bedroom and especially off the bed is a sensible strategy because that is where you spend the most time. Applying those rules consistently will make it easier for your pet to understand and learn them. Remove carpets and upholstered furniture. Once allergens get into them, they may remain as long as six months.
Strategy 2: Remove Allergens From the Air
Good ventilation and a high efficiency, whole house air cleaner help remove allergens already in the home. Vacuuming is not usually a good strategy for removal of allergens. In fact, if you are allergic you should not even be present during vacuuming; it can stir up more tiny allergy-causing particles than it removes.
Strategy 3: Groom Your Pet Regularly
You can help make your pet less of an allergy source by keeping him or her groomed and clean. Regular combing and bathing is recommended. Have a non-allergic person comb your pet with a fine-toothed comb away from the allergic person's sleeping area every day. A couple of minutes should be enough for a cat or small dog if you comb your pet regularly.
In addition, cleaning your pet once or twice a week with distilled water will help reduce the number of allergens it sheds. And, yes, even cats can have these simple baths. It's not as hard as it sounds!
Allergies can be a serious illness. See your doctor. You may be relieved to learn that your allergies are not caused by your pet at all, but by something else entirely.
This information is from information from Space-Gard, a company that makes high efficiency air cleaners.
Glaucoma-- can your pet go blind?
Glaucoma has been, and will remain, one of the leading causes of blindness in dogs and cats. In the initial stages of glaucoma, the patient has no pain and only a mild change in the appearance of the eye. The sclera (or white part of the eye) may appear "bloodshot" and the patient may seem a little extra sensitive to bright light. As the disease progresses the patient may have noticeable pain, although the source of the pain may be difficult to localize. The eyeball itself may appear swollen at this stage of the disease. If left untreated, the patient will lose eyesight, sometimes becoming blind quite suddenly. Some cases can progress to complete blindness in a very short period of time.
How is glaucoma typically caused? The front part of the eye-from the cornea to the lens-is filled with a fluid called aqueous humor. It produced continually by the eye. This production is offset by continuous reabsorption of aqueous humor into the blood stream through an area of the eye known as the drainage, or filtration, angle. The delicate balance between production and reabsorption of aqueous humor maintains the normal size and shape of the eye. Glaucoma, an increase in pressure within the eye, results when there is normal production but decreased outflow of aqueous humor. (Click on drawing for complete illustration. Then click on your BACK button to return.)
Therapeutic goals include reducing the pressure within the eye and, if possible, preserving vision. Medications, often in the form of eye drops, can be used to decrease production of aqueous humor and to increase outflow form the eye. Surgery is often needed to remove a displaced lens or tumor that causes glaucoma or to increase the outflow or decrease the formation of aqueous humor when medications are ineffective. Glaucoma that doesn't result from a cause such as tumors or eye injuries will usually affect both eyes. You will need to be alert for early signs of glaucoma in your pet's eyes.
Most clients are aware of routine glaucoma testing, as optometrists and ophthalmologists usually do this at the time of eye examinations. We have a specialized piece of equipment, the same one that the ophthalmologist use, that greatly enhances the ease and accuracy of glaucoma screening. The test is very safe and comfortable for the patient. A topical anesthetic is applied to the eye and the tonometry instrument is gently tapped on the cornea (the clear covering on the front of the eye). Sanitary tip covers are used to avoid any contamination. The owner can calm the patient if anxious, although this is rarely necessary. The entire procedure takes only a few minutes and is safe and accurate. If an elevated pressure is noted, an appointment can be made to discuss the results with the veterinarian. The doctor may advise a complete physical exam as well as additional testing. In most cases your veterinarian will refer you and your pet to a veterinary ophthalmologist.
Any pet can benefit from routine glaucoma screening. It is a good idea to know your pet's normal ocular pressure measurement. There are also certain breeds of dogs and cats that are predisposed to glaucoma. These pets should have a baseline established and monitored on an annual basis. If a history of glaucoma is already in the bloodline, these pets should be monitored more frequently. Screening for glaucoma is also very important in senior pets and should be done on an annual basis beginning at six to seven years of age. Early detection is the only way to aid in the control of glaucoma.
Find out more about tonometry to detect glaucoma.
Some Breeds Predisposed to Glaucoma Include:
Afghan
Akita
Alaskan Malamute
Basset Hound
Beagle
Border Collie
Boston Terrier
Bouvier des Flanders
Chihuahua
Cocker Spaniel
Cairn Terrier
Corgi, Cardigan Welsh
Corgi, Pembroke Welsh
Chow
Dachshund
Dalmatian
Dandie Dinmont Terrier
English Springer Spaniel
Fox Terrier, Smooth-coated
Fox Terrier, Wire-haired
Great Dane
Maltese
Manchester Terrier
Miniature Pinscher
Norfolk Terrier
Norwegian Terrier
Norwich Terrier
Poodle
Saluki
Schnauzer, Giant
Scottish Terrier
Sealyham Terrier
Siberian Husky
Samoyed
Shih Tzu
Skye Terrier
Tibetan Terrier
Welsh Terrier
Welsh Springer Spaniel
West Highland White Terrier
Whippet
Some cat breeds with a predisposition are:
Persians
Siamese
Some Domestic Shorthairs.
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Getting the jump on fleas
Choose between monthly flea products that work and are easy to use
The constant jangling of the tags as your pet scratches and chews keeps you up at night. Throwing a pillow at him certainly hasn't helped. 
Yelling doesn't succeed either. His skin is red and irritated. What the heck is going on? It's flea season! Wait a sec, you say. I've never seen one flea on my pet. And anyway, I keep my house clean. How dare you!
Well guess what? Fleas can easily be brought in from outside after a nice walk. They can come in on your clothing or on your pet. Their eggs are so tiny, you probably will never spot one. They can live in the smallest dust ball in the smallest crack or under the furthest reaches of your furniture. And for the poor dog or cat that is allergic to the bite of a flea, it only takes one to set off an allergic chain reaction of biting and chewing.
You've tried all the powders, sprays and shampoos you say? Well, technology has caught up in the war on fleas and there are three products you'll want to compare and try. You use them once a month! How's that for easy!
The one that's been out longer is called PROGRAM. It is an oral drug that affects only the flea, not your pet, so it's very safe. It works by sterilizing the flea so that no more young are produced. Since flea larvae make up over 50% of the flea population, this is very effective at breaking the flea life cycle. But be prepared to continue to use household sprays and treatments for 60 to 90 days. That's how long it will take for PROGRAM to reach maximum effectiveness. Also, be sure to give it with a meal for it to be absorbed properly. You can also give PROGRAM in a single monthly tablet combined with heartworm prevention; it's called SENTINEL.
The next weapons in our flea arsenal are ADVANTAGE and FRONTLINE. Both of them are topical products that are placed on the skin between your pet's shoulder blades. They then spread over your pet's body and will paralyze and then kill any flea coming in contact with the product. These flea products are especially useful for those poor pets that are flea allergic; a flea does not have to bite to die! And FRONTLINE is also labeled for tick control as well. They both should continue to work even if your dog swims. It's ideal to bathe before applying, and FRONTLINE should not be applied within two days of the bath. Some clients use PROGRAM year round and then add ADVANTAGE or FRONTLINE during the worst of the flea seasons (usually Spring and Fall). Or you can also give PROGRAM in a single monthly tablet combined with heartworm prevention; it's called SENTINEL.
The newest flea product that also protects against heartworms is REVOLUTION. This is a topical product for dogs and cats that is applied to the skin once a month. This is a totally new route for heartworm protection. It's easy and it's effective. It also controls hookworms and roundworms in cats, as well as ear mites and mange mites. Click here for more information about Revolution.
Don't forget to treat the house, and be sure to use a product with an insect growth regulator - IGR - to kill the immature stages for long periods of time (larvae that will be hatching out of the impervious eggs). This initial spraying and fogging will kill adults (for a few days) and larvae. After 10 to 14 days treat again, but you don't have to use a product with an IGR this time; a regular spray that kills only the adults that are just emerging from the pupae is fine. Spray the yard (pay close attention to spraying the shady areas of your yard) for fleas (spray for ticks now too); and even the car. Still confused? Call us, that's what we're here for!
So now there are no more reasons not to get that good night's sleep. What? You say your spouse snores? Sorry, but we can't help you with that problem!
Quick Flea Facts:
- Breeds year-round
- Can serve as an intermediate host for the tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum)
- Can cause symmetrical hair loss
- Pets usually have a problem with excessive licking
- Crusty, bumpy lesions on primarily the neck and back
- Fleas can also cause an allergic reaction called flea allergy dermatitis
- In the early stages you can see the flea dust or dirt when washing your pet (reddish-brown color). This is actually digested blood.
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Traveling with your pet
Whether it's a short drive to the beach, or a plane ride to see
relatives, most pets (and their owners) can learn to enjoy the change
but planning ahead and acclimating your pet is a must.
If you are planning your trip by car, spend several weeks prior to
the trip getting your pet used to the car ride. Begin by introducing
him to the interior of the car to allow him to become acquainted with
the smell, and atmosphere. Sit in the car with him and be sure to pet
him and encourage him to be calm and relaxed. If he is very nervous,
this may take some patient coaxing over several days. He should always
associate the car with lavish rewards and praise. And be patient!
Start out with very short trips- maybe just around the block. The
main thing is to keep it fun! If your pet associates car riding only
with unpleasant events (like perhaps going to see his doctor!) then he
will always become nervous at the prospect of getting in the car.
Teach him that the car can mean going to the park or visiting friends.
Or call your veterinary office and ask them if it's okay just to drop
by. The staff can pet him, praise him and give him a treat. Then take
him home. That way he won't always associate a drive to the doctor with
something unpleasant. When he's first learning to ride in the car,
don't feed him for several hours before his trip. Make sure he's
walked before starting out. Keep it pleasant and repeat this as often
as possible, slowly leading up to the long trip.
The day of the big trip walk him well and place something special,
like a favorite blanket, on the back seat. You have already taught him
during his training sessions that he must ride quietly and not jump
into the front seat. It is very dangerous to have a pet get in the way
of the driver, especially in an emergency situation. If you are
traveling with a cat, it is probably best to use a roomy cat carrier
during the trip or harness him in the back. Purchase a special
restraint or car seat for your pet for use when in the car. I
recommend them; in the case of an accident your pet will not be
thrown forward and possibly injured. In addition, the pet will be secured away from the driver.
If you are planning on traveling by pickup truck, even just for a
short distance, please do your dog a favor and keep him in the cab with
you. Never let your pet travel unsecured in an open truck bed. Any
sudden start, stop or turn can throw your pet out onto the highway. If
the high speed impact doesn't hurt or kill him, then being run over by
oncoming vehicular traffic probably will. There are other dangers as
well. The wind whizzing past his face can blow pieces of debris or
grit into his eyes, lodge in his nasal passages or get sucked into his
windpipe. This is also the reason why your pet should not ride inside
the vehicle with his head hanging out the window.
If you can't allow your dog to ride inside the cab with you, then
put him inside a crate that has been securely tied to the walls of the
truck bed preventing it from sliding or getting thrown out. If the dog
is tethered, make sure that the line is not long enough to reach over
the vehicle's sides. The animal could jump out and hang itself.
On very long car trips, plan a rest stop every few hours. Make
sure you never leave your pet alone in the car for any period of time,
especially on warm days as your car can become an oven and cause fatal
heatstroke. At the rest stops provide your pet with some cool water.
I advise carrying a gallon jug of water with you. Some pets may be
finicky when offered strange water. Dogs should be taken out on a
leash for a long walk and some exercise. Cats should be allowed to
stretch their legs also and should be offered a litter box. Please be
sure to keep your pet leashed. Many unhappy families have returned
home from ruined vacations without their beloved pet. Pets can become
easily frightened in strange places and run off.
Pets that are used to riding in the car usually love it! The
simple jingling of car keys or the word "ride" sends them into a
frenzy. Even if it's just a short ride to the corner market, it can be
pure happiness and a way to spend some extra enjoyable time with your
pet.
If you are planning your trip by plane, taking your pet can be an
anxious experience. A few pointers may help ease the situation. Walk
your dog well before the trip. For an early morning trip don't feed
anything after your pet's dinner the night before. Otherwise, a light
meal six hours before take-off is okay, but don't let your pet eat
after that. Don't let him drink water within two hours unless it is
very hot outside. Make sure the airline kennel that you purchase is
sturdy and large enough for your pet to stand and turn around in. Be
sure to firmly attach a name and address tag to the kennel and make
sure your pet is wearing a collar with a tag.
Your pet can travel three ways with many of the airlines: baggage, air freight, and carry-on. As baggage, your pet will travel
with the passengers' luggage which has the same pressurization and
temperature as the passenger cabins. The kennels are usually kept
separate from other luggage and near the doors for easy access. If
your pet is not traveling with you, then he goes air freight. The same
pressurized compartments are used. Some airlines will allow a small
pet to travel in the passenger cabin with you. The kennel must be
small enough to fit under the seat. Check with each individual airline
concerning their regulations.
Usually, problems associated with air travel occur if a pet is
left exposed to extreme heat or cold for long periods of time while
waiting for a plane either during the initial part of the trip or
during a layover. I recommend that you find out from the airline the
latest possible time you can leave your pet to minimize the chance of
this occuring. If your pet is travelling air freight and it is not a
direct flight, check with the airline for special services that they
may offer. For instance, I checked with Delta last year and they told
me they have a service called Dash which allows the pet to take the
very next available flight out. I was assured at that time that the
layover would never be more than an hour with this service, otherwise
the wait is up to four hours long. Of course, the ideal situation
would be to travel with your pet and book a non-stop flight. And of
course, make sure your pet is healthy before beginning a journey that
will be very stressful to your pet.
Be sure to check with the airline you are planning to travel with.
Most airlines do require a health certificate. The U.S. Department of
Agriculture sets up guidelines for airlines to follow regarding
shipping of animals, so if you feel that your pet was not properly
handled, file a complaint with this agency.
Before you and your pet take to the skies consider the following
additional tips:
- If your pet is pregnant, extremely nervous, or recovering from an
illness it may not be wise to take it along. If you must take it
along, consult with your veterinarian as to what medications and
arrangements might best suit your pet's needs.
- Make sure all your pet's inoculations are up-to-date - not only for its protection but because other states and countries may require certificates and other documents or you may be subject to quarantine and fines. If traveling in the United States take along your rabies
vaccination certificate and a health certificate. If traveling to other countries you should check to find out what documents are required.
- Dogs and cats should be at least 8 weeks old and should have been weaned for at least 5 days before they travel. Ideally, birds should be weaned as well.
- Check with individual airlines regarding their regulations and the
reservation of a proper travel kennel. Recheck a few days in advance
and arrive at the airport early to allow yourself plenty of time to
adjust any mistakes.
- Check with your veterinarian regarding any medications or
tranquilizers for the trip.
- Remember to have plenty of identification attached to the kennel and your pet. A tag on a collar (no choke collars, please) and a microchip will ensure prompt and indisputable identification.
If you decide not to take your pet with you on your trip, reserve
at a good kennel early and be sure your pet is up-to-date on all
vaccinations to prevent the spread of disease. Take him to a kennel
where you know the staff and feel that he will be properly fed,
exercised and pampered to make his stay away from you as pleasant as
possible.
If you travel with your pet, the Finder System can prevent you from ruining a perfectly good vacation if your pet should become lost. Speak for your lost pet and learn more about the
Finder System voice mail pet ID tag.
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Dogs & Cats
Normal Physiological Data
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DOGS
Temperature: 100 to 102
degrees F
(rectal)
Pulse: 70 to 130 beats
per minute
Respiration: 10 to 30
per minute
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CATS
Temperature: 99 to 102.5
degrees F
(rectal)
Pulse: 100 to 160 beats
per minute
Respiration: 16 to 32
per minute
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Gestation period: (length of pregnancy) is 63 days for both dogs and cats
FIRST AID KIT
The following items are suggested for a home first aid kit for your pet, as well as related pet care supplies that should also be available.
triple antibiotic ointment
short sturdy stick for a splint
Betadine solution and scrub
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eye ointment or artificial tears
styptic powder for minor bleeding
thermometer (child's rectal)
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