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Owning a Ferret

Ferrets can be a lot of fun, and under the right circumstances they can make wonderful pet. They are not the same as caring for a dog or a cat, and before getting one of these playful critters you should try to learn as much about them as possible. They are not, however, usually recommended in household with very small children.

General Information

Ferrets come in several different color schemes: the Fitch ferret is the most popular. Fitch ferrets have a buff colored coat with black markings on the face, feet, and tails. Albino ferrets are white with pink eyes. Some ferrets have a buff coat with light markings.

The female ferret is called a jill, the male is a hob, and the infants are called kits.

The gestation period, or length of pregnancy, is about 42 days (compared to 60 days for dogs and cats and 270 days for people). Like puppies and kittens, kits are born deaf and with their eyes closed. They begin walking by about 3 weeks of age, which is also when their eyes and ears open. By about 6 weeks of age, they are weaned onto kitten or ferret food. The average life span is 5-8 years; ferrets are considered geriatric pets at 3 years of age (compared to 8 years of age for dogs and cats).

Ferrets can make good pets. Their diet is cat food or ferret food, and they easily learn to use a litterbox.

They can be nippy; check with your veterinarian prior to purchasing a ferret is you have small children.

Ferrets are escape artists and are easily able to squeeze through the tiniest openings and cracks. Homes must be "ferret-proofed" to prevent escape and injury. Naturally inquisitive, they will chew on and swallow many things. It is highly recommended to put a collar with a bell attached on your ferret so that it can be easily found if it escapes your sight (make sure the bell can't be swallowed if it becomes detached, or make sure it's firmly secured to the collar and can't easily detach). Never let your ferret out of your sight when it's out of its cage. If you leave the room even for a minute, take the ferret with you or put it back in its cage (carrier).

As stated above, ferrets love to chew. Rubber toys are not safe for ferrets, as they often chew off and swallow small pieces! Diagnosis of an obstruction is often difficult in a ferret; usually the problem is diagnosed during exploratory surgery and is often fatal if not treated early. Hard toys like Nylabones are safe, as are rawhide treats in small amounts (although some veterinarians feel rawhide shouldn't be given to any pets). Other safe toys include ping pong and golf balls, small cans, cardboard mailing tubes, and very hard plastic toys. Cloth toys are all right IF the ferret is not chewing off pieces of it!

Ferrets are usually spayed or neutered and de-scented prior to purchase. Unless you want to breed your prospective pet, sterilization is preferred. Intact (un-neutered) male ferrets have a musky odor and can be aggressive; female ferrets never go out of heat unless bred. This prolonged heat results in bone marrow suppression from high levels of estrogen, which is fatal unless treated early and aggressively with blood transfusions.

The anal sacs of ferrets secrete a foul smelling liquid, and thus de-scented ferrets (which have these sacs removed at the time of spaying and neutering) make better pets. Even after de-scenting, ferrets still have a slightly musky odor. Bathing can be done weekly or every other week with a gentle moisturizing shampoo that your veterinarian recommends. Ferrets should also have their sharp claws trimmed regularly (ask your veterinarian for instructions). Ferrets should not be declawed.

Vaccinations

Just like dogs and cats, ferrets require a series of vaccinations as youngsters. Once a year, they also require an examination, a fecal test for internal parasites, and vaccination boosters. Once a ferret becomes 3 years of age, it requires a complete geriatric profile (see below).

Ferrets are usually vaccinated at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age against canine distemper. There is an approved vaccine for rabies in ferrets. However, since many state laws vary regarding ferret bites, some veterinarians do not vaccinate ferrets for rabies.

Anatomical Interests

According to current knowledge, ferrets lack detectable blood types and transfusion reactions would not be expected, even without crossmatching.

Ferrets are very susceptible to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). For this reason, they are only fasted for a few hours (rather than overnight) prior to surgery or blood sampling.

Ferrets, like many small mammals and pocket pets, are extremely susceptible to heat stress or stroke. The temperature must be kept below 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C).

Selecting Your Pet

Some areas make it illegal to own a pet ferret, due to potential attacks on people (specifically children, as ferrets can be aggressive and nippy) and the chance of an escaped ferret becoming established in the wild (and potentially destroying crops). If owning a ferret is legal, they can often be purchased at pet stores or through breeders or ferret club members. Look for a young ferret (ideally). The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge that might indicate a respiratory infection (or distemper). The ferret should be curious and inquisitive; it should not be thin and emaciated. Check for the presence of wetness around the anus, which might indicate diarrhea. Check for the presence of external parasites such as fleas. If possible, examine the ferret's mouth for broken teeth, discolored gums (they should be light pink), or any obvious sores, any of which could suggest disease. Inquire as to whether the ferret has been surgically altered (spayed or neutered) or de-scented (had its anal sacs surgically removed); most ferrets have these operations performed by 8-12 weeks of age prior to purchase.

The First Veterinary Visit

Your ferret should be examined by a veterinarian who treats these special pets within 48 hours of purchase (this is often required by the seller or the guarantee is voided). The doctor will discuss proper diet, housing, and toys for the ferret. A vaccination program will be set up, a fecal sample checked for worms, and the ferret may be started on heartworm preventative. Like dogs and cats, ferrets require annual veterinary visits.

Once a ferret becomes 3 years old, a complete geriatric work-up, which includes an EKG, urinalysis, blood profile, and radiographs (X-rays) is necessary for the early detection of diseases so commonly seen in older ferrets, such as cardiomyopathy and cancer.

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Choosing a Reptile

Reptiles are popular pets. Some people want to own them to be different (never a good reason for owning any pet), some enjoy the lower cost of veterinary care as compared to dogs and cats (this is often, but not always true), and many people who don't have the time to devote to a dog or cat enjoy the relatively "maintenance-free" appeal of a snake, iguana, or turtle.

Before purchasing a reptile, it would be wise to ask yourself several questions:

While many reptiles, especially those purchased as captive-born infants, allow owners to handle them, others do not. Many of the more exotic species such as chameleons do not allow handling and react aggressively or become severely stressed. As a rule, if you want a pet to snuggle with, a reptile is not for you. If, on the other hand, you want an animal you can display, a reptile deserves your consideration.

All pets require AT LEAST 15 minutes of observation by the owner each day. The owner who fails to pay at least this much attention to his pet won't detect early signs of disease and is really neglecting his responsibility as a pet owner. Most reptiles need to be fed and watered daily, and often the cages needs to be cleaned daily as well. The owner who intends to put his reptile in a cage and observe it only once in awhile should seriously consider his decision to care for this type of pet.

ALL reptiles need to be examined immediately after purchase (within 48 hours) and at least annually by a reptile veterinarian! Doing this allows early detection of disease. With very rare exception, exotic pets usually don't act sick (or show any indication of illness) until they are VERY SICK! As a rule, A Sick Reptile Is A Dying Reptile! Regular veterinary care and an informed pet owner greatly reduces illness and death in these pets (as well as the overall cost of medical care).

At a minimum, most reptiles require a 10-gallon glass aquarium, two pieces of astroturf to line the bottom of the aquarium, a source of heat, and a source of UV light. While not expensive or difficult to assemble, an improper environment is the second most common source of diseases and captivity problems encountered in reptiles (an improper diet is the most common problem).

Reptiles do get sick, and preventing illness is definitely preferred to treatment. As an introduction to reptile diseases, owners must understand that reptiles hide signs of illness quite well. This is called the "preservation response." In the wild, if an animal showed signs of illness every time it felt bad, it would easily be attacked by predators or even members of its own group. Therefore, these animals don't appear ill until the illness is actually quite advanced. Our pet reptiles still retain this "wild" characteristic. To repeat, "A Sick Reptile Is A Dying Reptile"! It's very important to take your pet to the veterinarian at the FIRST sign of illness. Waiting to see if things get better, or treatment with over-the-counter medications, especially those sold at pet stores, only delays proper treatment and often results in expensive veterinary bills and a dead reptile! Veterinarians can do many things for sick reptiles, but early intervention is critical!

While the principles of diagnosis and treatment of diseases is the same regardless of the species of pet, there are important differences between reptiles and dogs and cats. Only a veterinarian with the expertise in treating reptiles should be consulted for medical or surgical advice.

The First Veterinary Visit

Within 48 hours of your purchase, your reptile should be examined by a reptile veterinarian. The visit includes determining the animal's weight, as well as checking for lumps and bumps. The pet is examined for signs of dehydration and starvation. A fecal test is done to check for internal parasites. Unlike most pets, it's impossible to get a pet reptile to defecate on command (although many will give you an unwelcome sample if angered!). A reptile's feces is often a hard "ball" of fecal matter; analyzing this material gives little useful information. A colonic wash, similar to an enema, will allow your veterinarian to accurately check for internal parasites. The oral cavity is examined for signs of infectious stomatitis (mouth rot). No vaccines are required for reptiles. Most of the visit will probably be a question and answer session. If all turns out well, your pet will be given a clean bill of health. Just like dogs and cats, pet reptiles should be examined annually and have their stool tested for parasites annually as well.

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Common Diseases of Pet Iguanas

What Are Some Of The Common Diseases of Pet Iguanas?

Common conditions of pet iguanas include metabolic bone disease, infectious stomatitis (mouth rot), parasites, abscesses, and hypervitaminosis D.

What Are The Signs Of These Diseases?

Metabolic bone disease, probably the most common condition of pet iguanas, is usually caused by feeding an improper diet that is low in calcium or Vitamin D and high in phosphorus. Common signs include swelling of the lower jaw and/or swelling of the hind-limbs. As the condition progresses muscle twitching, loss of appetite, and loss of energy (lethargy) are seen. (Please read the article on feeding your iguana.)

Infectious Stomatitis (Mouth Rot) is seen as pinpoint hemorrhages on the gums or an excess amount of thick mucus, often like cottage cheese, in the mouth.

Parasites, especially pinworms, are common in pet iguanas. They often cause no clinical signs and are detected on an annual fecal examination. They may, however, cause diarrhea or weight loss.

Abscesses, commonly seen in pet iguanas, appear as hard tumor-like swellings anywhere on the pet's body.

Hypervitaminosis D is a condition that develops as owners either over-supplement the iguana's diet with vitamins and minerals or feeds the pet dog or cat food. Clinical signs are vague and include lack of appetite and lethargy.

How Can I Tell If My Iguana Is Sick?

Signs of disease in iguanas may be specific for a certain disease, such as jaw or hind-limb swelling as seen in iguanas with metabolic bone disease, or non-specific, such as an iguana with anorexia (lack of appetite) and lethargy, which can be seen with many diseases. ANY deviation from normal should be a cause for concern and requires immediate evaluation by your veterinarian.

How Are Iguana Diseases Treated?

Metabolic bone disease usually requires injectable or oral calcium, a multi-vitamin or mineral supplement, or calcitonin, a new drug which puts calcium into your iguana's bones.

Infectious stomatitis (mouth rot), usually requires injectable antibiotics, as well as rinsing the mouth with antibiotic solutions. Atropine (to reduce the thickness of the oral secretions) and Vitamin C may also be needed.

Several deworming medications are available either as an oral or injectable drug. The type of parasite identified on the microscopic fecal examination will determine which drug is needed.

Abscesses are treated surgically; the abscess is opened and flushed with a medicated solution. A culture of the abscess may be needed to determine the type of infection that caused the abscess. Topical medication and injectable antibiotics may also be used.

Hypervitaminosis D is a serious problem that requires hospitalization and intensive therapy with fluids, force feeding, and drugs such as diuretics and corticosteroids to help lower the iguana's calcium level.

Any of these diseases can be severe enough to cause a loss of appetite and lethargy. When seen, these signs indicate a guarded prognosis and the need for hospitalization and intensive care, which can include fluid therapy and force feeding.

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Feeding Your Iguana

Diet is the area where most people fail their iguanas. Without proper nutrition, iguanas can suffer a variety of health problems. Because of the type, number and arrangement of their teeth, iguanas perforate but do not chew food. In the wild, iguanas chomp at leaves, tearing off tiny pieces and eating them. Therefore, pet owners should chop food according to the size of the iguana. A cheese grater or food processor is ideal for preparing food for small iguanas.

Food should be offered daily in a shallow dish, so the iguana can reach it easily while standing on the cage floor. The total diet should have a ratio of 2 parts calcium to 1 part phosphorus.

A large amount of the green iguana's diet should consist of leafy green vegetables, such as collards, beet tops (and beets), radish, tops, dandelions (flowers, leaves and roots), turnip greens, Swiss chard, bok choy, broccoli, mustard greens, cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts, mulberry leaves, hibiscus leaves (and blossoms), clover, escarole and endive.

A smaller portion of the diet should consist of other vegetables, such as various squash, zucchini, sprouts, carrots, green beans, okra, pea pods, sweet potatoes and bell peppers. The remaining 10 percent to 20 percent should consist of fruits high in calcium, like mango, papaya, raspberries, figs and prickly pear cactus fruit.

In lesser amounts-or as treats-iguanas can eat apples, melons, grapes, peaches, blueberries, pears, tomatoes, cranberries, kiwis, guavas strawberries and bananas.

Since iguanas can detect certain colors (red, orange, yellow and green), they should be offered many colorful flowers and fruits. Never feed an iguana iceberg lettuce, as it has no nutritional value.

Animal protein (monkey biscuits, dry dog food, insects and so on) should be a very small percentage (1 percent to 5 percent) of a young iguana's diet. However, adult diets should be strictly vegetarian. Hatchlings may have crickets, mealworms and other insects, occasionally.

Wash all food thoroughly to avoid poisoning from pesticides or other chemicals that can be ingested.

Vitamin, mineral and calcium powder with D3 should be sprinkled on the food every other day for added nutrition.

Here's a quick cheat sheet for proper iguana diets.

Feed Daily: Chopped Vegetables

• Green Beans
• Avocado
• Carrots
• Squash
• Thawed Mixed Vegetables
• Okra

Feed Daily: Leafy Greens

• Turnip Greens
• Collard Greens
• Escarole
• Boston Lettuce
• Bok Choy
• Kale
• Leaf Lettuce (not iceberg!)
• Mulberry Leaves
• Green Cabbage Leaves
• Dandelion Greens (be careful of pesticides if picking from outdoors)
• Nasturtium Leaves
• Sweet Potato Leaves
• Hibiscus Leaves and Blossoms

Feed Twice a Week: Chopped Fruits and Starches

• Orange or Grapefruit Peel
• Papaya
• Berries
• Bananas
• Grapes
• Mangos
• Bread (whole grain)
• Cooked Rice with chopped foods stirred in

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Owning a Rabbit

Rabbits make a nice alternative to a dog or cat. They are usually not aggressive, don't have to be walked, and usually learn to use a litterbox quite easily. Their average life span is 5-10 years old, and they reach breeding age at 6 months of age. Early spaying and neutering at 4-6 months of age is recommended to decrease both medical and behavioral problems. Rabbits are known for their easy breeding abilities; pregnancy lasts about 30 days and the average size litter is 4-10 bunnies.

Proper handling of rabbits is important. Rabbits have a lightweight skeleton compared to most animals. Their powerful back legs allow them to kick with a large amount of strength. If held improperly, a swift kick can easily cause a rabbit to break its back, resulting in euthanasia for the now paralyzed rabbit. When carrying your pet, always support its rear end. If the rabbit struggles, it should be placed down immediately, given time to quiet itself, and picked up a few minutes later. NEVER pick up your rabbit by its ears. Have your veterinarian show you the proper way to restrain and carry your rabbit.

Anatomical Interests

Rabbits have large ears, which give them an excellent sense of hearing. The ears also serve as a way for the rabbit to regulate its body temperature. The ears contain large veins, which are often used for drawing blood for diagnostic testing.

Rabbits have a digestive tract that is adapted for digesting the large amount of fiber that is required in their diets.

Compared to other pets, the skeleton of a rabbit is very light in relation to the rest of its body. This means that their bones fracture (break) more easily; carrying a rabbit improperly can predispose it to bone fractures.

Rabbits have two pairs of upper incisor teeth (the second pair is hidden behind the first).

Like rodents, rabbit teeth grow throughout the pet's life and may need periodic trimming by your veterinarian. Providing your rabbit with blocks of wood to chew often prevents overgrown incisors, a common condition in pet rabbits.

Selecting your Pet

Rabbits can often be purchased at pet stores or through breeders. Ideally, select a young bunny. The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge that might indicate a respiratory infection. It should be curious and inquisitive. The rabbit should not be thin and emaciated. Check for the presence of wetness around the anus, which might indicate diarrhea. Also check for the presence of parasites such as fleas and ear mites (ear mites cause the production of waxy black exudate in the ears). If possible, examine the rabbit's mouth for broken or overgrown incisors (front teeth), discolored gums (they should be light pink), and any obvious sores. Inquire as to whether the rabbit has been spayed or neutered; most have not been at the time of purchase. These operations should be performed by 4-6 months of age. Finally, inquire as to any guarantee of health the seller is offering.

The First Veterinary Visit

Your rabbit should be examined by a qualified veterinarian within 48 hours of purchase (this examination is often required by the seller or any guarantee is voided). Make sure the veterinarian has experience in treating rabbits. The doctor should discuss housing, proper diet, and appropriate toys for the rabbit. A fecal sample should be examined for parasites. Rabbits require annual physical examinations and fecal tests to check for parasites, although no annual vaccinations are required.

Vaccinations

Rabbits do not require vaccinations.

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Rabbit Tooth Problems Can Be Painful

Domestic rabbits belong to a small group of animals that have continuously growing or open-rooted teeth. This means that all the teeth in the mouth-including the incisors in the front of the mouth and the premolars and molars (called cheek teeth)-will continue to grow throughout the rabbit's lifetime. The reason for this is that rabbits in the wild eat a large amount of coarse, fibrous material such as dried plants and poor-quality greens. The teeth are constantly worn against each other and against the coarse diet; they would soon wear out if not constantly replaced. If a rabbit's teeth and diet are normal, then the teeth will wear down at a constant rate that is equal to the growth rate of the tooth. If, however, a rabbit's teeth do not meet correctly or the rabbit does not eat enough roughage, then dental problems can occur.

Malocclusion is the term for teeth that don't meet correctly. Because a rabbit's teeth are constantly growing, malocclusion can cause small points to grow on the teeth from uneven wear. These points can irritate the tongue or cheek and cause eating to be a painful experience. Overgrown incisors can actually grow into the opposing jaw or lip. Malocclusion of the incisors is easy to see if you take the time to look carefully at your pet's front teeth. If you see that one incisor (left or right) is longer than the other, you should contact your veterinarian. It is normal for the upper incisors to be about twice as long as the lower incisors. Without specialized equipment, it is impossible to view the cheek teeth of a rabbit, so your veterinarian will have to do that for you. It should be part of your rabbit's yearly physical exam.

Signs (depend on the teeth involved and the severity of the overgrowth):

• decreased appetite
• dropping food from mouth after chewing it
• approaching food, seemingly interested in eating, but not actually eating or swallowing the food

Treatment (depends on the teeth that are affected and the cause of the malocclusion):

Periodic Trimming:

• Incisor malocclusions may be trimmed periodically with a dental drill or other cutting device. This usually requires anesthesia and should probably be performed by a clinician. The teeth usually need to be trimmed every 3-4 months.

• Cheek teeth can be trimmed periodically, but must be done under sedation using specialized tools. This cannot be performed easily at home.

Surgery:

• Incisors can be removed surgically. Most rabbits do very well. Check with your veterinarian.

• Cheek teeth are more difficult and are rarely removed unless there is a tooth root abscess or other severe problem.

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Rodents Make Great Pets

Pet rodents (hamsters, rats, mice, gerbils, and guinea pigs) are very popular pets. They make good first pets for young children and as a rule require minimal care. Compared to dogs and cats, they have a shorter life span (2-5 years depending upon the species); young children should be told this so that the "sudden death" of a 3-year-old pet isn't unexpected. As with any pet, they do occasionally get sick, and their illnesses are often severe. A qualified veterinarian should examine all pet rodents within 48 hours of purchase. This "new pet" exam is critical to detect signs of disease and help new pet owners get off on the right foot. So many problems are caused by misinformation; the first veterinary visit can help prevent well-intentioned owners from doing the wrong thing and ultimately contributing to the pet's early death.

Anatomical Interests

Common to all of the pet rodents is the fact that the front teeth, the incisors, grow continuously throughout the pet's life. Overgrown incisors are a common problem and can be prevented by allowing the pet access to pieces of wood and other chewing devices. Treatment involves trimming by your veterinarian, often under anesthesia.

Rodents are herbivorous animals, and the digestive tract is similar to that of other plant-eaters such as horses and cattle.

Guinea Pigs

No obvious tail is present.

Unlike other rodents, only one pair of mammary glands is present.

The guinea pig is the only pocket pet with premolar teeth. Unlike most animals, the young are precocious at birth, meaning they are fully developed, born with hair, and the eyes open.

Guinea pigs rarely bite, which makes them ideal pets. However, they do squeal when handled.

Mice

Porphyrin from the Harderian glands around the eyes causes tears and nasal secretions to appear red.

The spleen of males is larger than the spleen of females.

The mammary glands extend along the sides and back of the pet, and therefore breast cancer can appear as a lump ANYWHERE on the body.

Young mice are born hairless with their eyes closed.

Rats

Rats do not have tonsils or a gall bladder.

Similar to mice, rats have a Harderian gland that produces red tears and nasal secretions.

The young are born hairless with their eyes closed.

Hamsters

Hip glands, which appear as a black dot on each hip, are present in males. They are used for territorial marking and are poorly developed in females.

Hamsters have a cheek pouch on each side of the inside of the mouth. Food, and often baby hamsters, are temporarily stored here!

Hamsters are the most aggressive of all the pocket pets and often bite.

Hamsters can hibernate. A sleeping hamster should be awakened carefully!

Gerbils

Since gerbils are desert animals, they have a very low water requirement.

Due to the low water intake, gerbils urinate small amounts.

Gerbils usually mate for life; they should be paired before sexual maturity.

Many gerbils exhibit mild spontaneous seizures (epilepsy), especially when startled. These usually don't require treatment.

Gerbils have high blood cholesterol and lipid (fat) levels but do not show arteriosclerosis.

Selecting Your Pet

Most owners will buy their pet rodents locally through a pet store. Avoid sick-looking animals. Don't try to be a "Good Samaritan". Remember that, with exotic pets, if it looks sick, it's really dying! Trying to nurse a sick pet rodent back to health after purchasing it will rarely work. Just the stress of the new environment and feeding is often enough to kill it. So, start out right with a healthy pet. Always inquire about the guarantee in case the pet is found to be unhealthy.

The pet rodent should have no discharge from the eyes, nose, or mouth. If you can open the mouth (without being bitten!), make sure the front teeth, the incisors, have not overgrown (they should form a nice, even fit). The animal should seem frisky and try to run and resist handling to some extent. No coughing, sneezing, or wheezing should be present. Examine the rectal area. It should be dry and free of diarrhea or caked-on stool. This is especially important for young hamsters; many baby hamsters at pet stores have a disease called "wet tail", which is usually fatal. Ask the employee for help in determining the animal's sex. Keep in mind that pet store employees may know little more than you about the pet: the sex can be correctly determined during your pet's first veterinary visit.

The First Veterinary Visit

Within 48 hours of your purchase, your pet should be examined by a veterinarian knowledgeable in the treatment of pet rodents. The visit includes determining the animal's weight, as well as checking lumps or bumps. The animal is examined for signs of dehydration and starvation. A fecal test is test is done to check for internal parasites. The veterinarian can also determine the sex of your pet. If all turns out well, your pet will be given a clean bill of health. Like all pets, pet rodents should be examined annually and have their feces tested for parasites during the annual visit.

Vaccinations

Pet rodents do not require vaccinations.