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Table of Contents for Pages 1, 2 and 3:
Feather Problems
General Information
Feather loss is as much of a concern to bird owners as hair loss is to dog and cat owners. The feathers of a bird provide protection, insulation, flight, and visual signals to other pets. While feather loss in birds is usually not fatal, it is nevertheless disturbing to owners. Occasionally, feather loss can be the sign of a serious internal condition.
What causes feather loss?
Feather loss either occurs because the bird is truly losing feathers or because the bird is picking its feathers. If the owner can tell which is occurring, it often helps narrow down the possibilities of what is causing the problem.
Feather picking is often a behavioral problem, especially in the larger species of birds that are tightly bonded to their owners (such as cockatoos, macaws, and African gray parrots). However, feather picking can also be the result of a disease that causes irritation or pain for the bird.
True feather loss is always the result of a disease. Possibilities include viral infections (Beak and Feather Disease), bacteria (such as a staphylococcal dermatitis), parasites (such as a Giardia infection in cockatiels), and internal diseases (liver or kidney disease).
How do you diagnose the cause of feather loss?
Because there are many causes of feather loss, often a multitude of diagnostic tests must be run. A good history (supplied by the owner) and a thorough physical examination are critical and may help narrow down the list of possibilities. Routine diagnostic tests include various blood tests, fecal tests for parasites, gram stains and/or cultures to check for yeast and bacteria, and radiographs (X-rays) to rule out various internal diseases. Often, a skin biopsy and skin culture are needed to get a definitive diagnosis. Sometimes, the tests fail to reveal a diagnosis and the doctor will need to make a clinical judgment as to the best course of therapy for your bird.
How is feather loss treated?
That of course depends upon the cause of the disorder. Beak and Feather Disease is a fatal condition that cannot be treated. Other skin and feather infections may respond to antibiotics or antiviral medications. Parasites can be eradicated with an antiparasitic drug called ivermectin. Behavioral feather picking is difficult to treat; treatment may be attempted with behavior modification and certain types of drug therapy. Owners should be aware at the outset that even if a diagnosis is reached, it may be difficult to cure a bird with a feather disorder, especially if the cause is behavioral.
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Treating Feather Picking: A Roundtable Discussion
Feather picking is a common complaint among many bird owners. The causes can stem from physical, nutritional, medical, and psychological reasons. Two avian veterinarians, Dr. James K. Morrisey, Diplomate A.B.V.P.-Avian Specialist, and Dr. Amy Beth Worrell, Diplomate A.B.V.P.-Avian Specialist, discuss treating feather picking in birds. This article appeared in Exotic Pet Practice.
Q. What are common causes of feather picking?
Dr. Morrisey: Causes include those of a medical and psychological nature. Medical reasons include viral diseases, nutritional disorders, bacterial or fungal folliculitis or dermatitis, toxicities from zinc or an inhalant, and systemic diseases including hepatic and renal disease. Medical causes of feather picking usually have a greater response to treatment Psychological reasons include boredom and emotional or reproductive stresses. Birds naturally found in flocks need a rigid social structure or they may become stressed. A definitive diagnosis may not become apparent despite the extensive testing that is required to rule out serious medical disorders. Many birds may be helped with treatment, but total resolution of the problem may not occur.
Dr. Worell: Feather picking is caused by stress the bird experiences or perceives. It is more a disease of captive birds and is generally not seen in birds in the wild. Possible stressors include hormonal fluctuations, environmental changes, underlying disease, and lack of intellectual stimulation. The exact cause may not always be determined, and certain species have a higher incidence of feather picking in captivity. These include African grey parrots, umbrella cockatoos, and Eclectus parrots. Although feather picking is most commonly seen in psittacines, it has also been identified in softbills including finches and toucans.
Q. What diagnostic tests should be done?
Dr. Morrisey: I usually perform a CBC, serum biochemical profile, fecal Gram stain, and serology for psittacine beak and feather disease and polyomavirus. If these tests are non-diagnostic, whole body radiographs and a skin biopsy should be performed. A thorough history is important to detect psychological stresses.
Dr. Worell: After a physical examination is performed, a number of tests are needed to rule out underlying medical problems. I recommend a CBC, serum biochemical profile, bile acid assay, protein electrophoresis, the chlamydiosis elementary body agglutination, and a direct fecal examination for parasites. Most feather picking birds do not have identifiable problems on these tests, but occasionally medical problems are discovered.
Q. What conventional therapies are recommended? Please include dosages.
Dr. Morrisey: Medical diseases are treated according to their causes. Psychological causes are treated with behavioral therapy, environmental changes, and psychotropic medications. Behavioral therapy may include establishing a dominance hierarchy and providing positive reinforcement for non-picking behaviors. Environmental changes include moving the cage, separating birds, and adding toys (that can be destroyed). Antihistamines may be beneficial to decrease itching and to cause mild sedation. I reserve the use of psychotropic drugs until after other therapies are initiated unless self-mutilation is occurring. Haloperidol (0.1-0.2 mg/kg P0 ql2hr), amitriptyline (1-2 mg/kg P0 q12-24hr), or fluoxetine (2 mg/kg P0 ql2hr) may be tried with varying success.
Dr. Worell: There are no specific therapeutics. I explain to owners that most birds will look this way or worse the rest of their lives. Good nutrition is emphasized; I recommend any of several of the commercially available pelleted diets. Environmental changes are also discussed. Hormonal therapy (chorionic gonadotrophin [HCG] and Depo-provera [Upjohn, Kalamazoo, MD, including possible side effects, are discussed. Occasionally we can try oral antihistamine therapy (hydroxyzine dosed to effect in the water). Most of my clients elect dietary changes (in those cases where needed) and environmental changes. These include toy rotation, more frequent bathing, and eucalyptus branches for chewing.
Q. What about alternative therapies (acupuncture, etc.)?
Dr. Morrisey: I have used acupuncture in a few cases, resulting in improvement of the condition. I am not familiar with homeopathy. Consultation with a trained avian behaviorist may help.
Dr. Worell: I offer acupuncture to some clients. Response is species-dependent; certain species of birds respond better than others. The willingness of the owner to follow through with a once or twice weekly prolonged commitment also makes a difference. I have only experimented briefly with other alternative therapies involving medications in the water with no appreciable positive effects. Referral to a bird behaviorist has also been unrewarding.
Q. Do you recommend an E-collar for the feather picker?
Dr. Morrisey: No, because these collars add stress to an already stressed bird. If self-mutilation occurs and bandaging is not possible, then I might consider temporary use of an E-collar.
Dr. Worell: I use and recommend Elizabethan collars in those cases where self-mutilation is occurring. Otherwise, the collars serve as an additional source of stress with no cessation of feather picking when the collar is removed.
Q. How do you treat the bird whose owner refuses a medical workup?
Dr. Morrisey: I try to make an educated guess as to the cause of the problem. I may make simple recommendations for environmental and dietary changes. I might try medical therapy if a bacterial or fungal dermatitis is suspected.
Dr. Worell: Some owners do decline diagnostic testing. For these birds, we try a dietary change (most of these birds are eating a totally seed diet) and make environmental changes.
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Recognizing Illness in Birds
How can I tell if my bird is sick?
In the wild, a bird will endeavor to uphold a strong appearance when sick. This is called, "survival of the fittest". By the time a bird actually shows an owner that it is unwell, it has likely been sick for some time. It is because of this that bird owners must learn to recognize the subtle signs a bird presents when unhealthy before it is too late. Many things contribute to ill health. Improper diet is the most common cause of ill health. Trauma, poor upkeep, inferior hygiene, stress and genetics may lead to ill health. Just because the bird's outward appearance is normal does not mean the bird is healthy. Any deviation from normal should be taken as a sign of ill health.
The following is a list of signs that should alert you that your bird is sick:
- any change in regular behavior or personality
- unusually tame behavior
- irritability, agitation
- poor general appearance (feathers "ratty")
- eye discharge
- cloudy eyes
- swelling around eyes
- nasal discharge
- blocked nostrils
- sneezing (excessive)
- wheezing or "wet" breathing
- cere (the skin around the nostrils) irregularity
- labored breathing or open mouth breathing
- tail "bobbing" with each breath
- change in voice or no voice
- anorexia (not eating or reduced eating)
- changes in amount of drinking
- weight gain
- weight loss
- fluffed feathers
- drooping wing(s)
- listlessness, inactivity, depression
- sleeping more
- lumps, bumps, swellings or bulges on the body
- lameness or swollen joints
- paralysis
- weakness
- redness or visible irritation
- not perching, sitting on bottom of cage
- wet droppings
- diarrhea
- change in the color of the droppings
- staining of the feathers around the vent (anus)
- decreased droppings
- wet feathers around face and head
- vomiting or excessive regurgitation
- sore feet
- balance problems
- seizures
- unconsciousness
- flaky or crusty skin
- excessive scratching
- changes in the texture of the beak
- overgrown beak or nails
- feather changes, color, chewed, plucked, damaged
- baldness
- prolonged molt
- abnormality of beak growth
- protrusions from the vent (prolapse)
- bleeding
Do not try to play doctor. If you are concerned about anything, consult your veterinarian immediately.
Do not wait until tomorrow!
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Behavioral Changes
Birds have a remarkable ability to hide illness until the disease becomes so severe that they can no longer "fake" appearing healthy. This is considered to be a mechanism of wild birds to avoid being preyed upon by predators. The pet bird care provider plays a key role in the health surveillance of the bird by detecting the often subtle signs of illness in the bird's behavior. The earlier illness can be detected, the better the chances of successful treatment. The following is a list of common behavioral changes observed in pet birds that should prompt the pet bird care provider to seek veterinary advice.
Loss of Appetite (Anorexia): Anorexia or decreased food intake is a serious health concern because birds have a high metabolic rate and cannot afford to miss too many meals. Weighing the bird routinely using a gram scale is a good method of monitoring the health status of a bird. A bird that has lost greater than 10% of its body weight regardless of whether it is still eating, should be examined by a veterinarian.
Generalized Weakness: Weakness, lethargy, and excessive sleeping are behaviors suggestive of severe illness. Sick birds are inactive and often stay fluffed with their wings drooped.
Changes in Breathing Pattern: A bird that exhibits an apparent change in its breathing, especially if it has difficulty in breathing or obvious respiratory sounds, most likely has a serious respiratory disease. Periodic coughing or sneezing is normal; however, if this behavior occurs frequently, it can be a sign of illness.
Decreased Vocalizations: Birds that become unusually quiet quit talking, or are less playful and interactive may be ill. Sick birds, especially those with severe digestive tract disorders, may revert to their baby bird behavior of begging for food.
Regurgitation of Food: Regurgitation of food may be part of the normal courtship behavior of some birds that have chosen their care provider or image in a mirror as a mate. Regurgitation that is excessive and associated with weight loss is abnormal.
Excessive Egg Laying: Repetitive egg laying is a common medical disorder of some birds, such as cockatiels.
Neurotic Behavior: Increased preening, screaming, and aggression are abnormal behavioral changes in pet birds. Excessive grooming can lead to feather picking. These conditions often are seen in birds that are frustrated or stressed.
Falling Off the Perch: Birds may fall off their perch for a variety of reasons. They may r be unable to balance themselves because of a neurologic disorder or they may suffer from
generalized weakness. Falling off the perch and thrashing about in the cage during the night ("night frights") is a common occurrence in some birds, such as cockatiels, if they are not provided with a night light.
Picked on by Other Birds: Birds that are picked on by other birds in the flock my be too ill to defend themselves.
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Abnormal Droppings
General Information
A common cause of illness in pet birds involves a change of droppings. While not usually specific for any one particular disease, a change in the color, frequency, volume, or character of droppings indicates a problem that requires immediate veterinary attention.
What are the components of a normal dropping?
There are 3 components to the droppings. The first is the fecal component. For most pet birds, this is a green to dark green solid part of the droppings. The second component is the urates, or the solid urine component. Unlike most pets, birds, in their attempt to conserve water, produce a solid urine dropping. The urates are usually white in color. The third component which is not often recognized by owners is a clear liquid urine. It is important for owners to become familiar with their bird's normal droppings, as evaluation of the droppings is an important clue to illness in pet birds.
What is an abnormal dropping?
Simply put, once you get used to your bird's droppings, any deviation from what the normal droppings look like are abnormal for your bird and should prompt a veterinary visit. Typical abnormal droppings can include any of the following:
- Fewer than normal amount of droppings
- Increase in the number of droppings
- Change in color or texture of either the fecal component or the urate component
- Bubbly looking droppings
- Increase in the wet or liquid component
What causes abnormal droppings?
Many diseases can cause a change in the droppings. Diet also influences the droppings. If for example, you've decided to give your bird a few blueberries, its droppings will probably be blue or purple for a short period of time. Assuming that the diet has remained constant, common causes of abnormal droppings includes intestinal diseases, kidney disease, liver diseases, bacterial or viral infections, and parasite infections. Psittacosis, a common cause of liver disease, may produce lime green droppings in some birds. Some birds with heavy metal poisoning produce red droppings.
How will the doctor know what caused the abnormal droppings?
Your veterinarian can run a variety of tests, including blood tests and radiographs (X-rays) to try to determine if any internal diseases have caused the abnormal droppings. Most importantly, evaluation can be done on the droppings for parasites, yeast and bacteria by performing a special kind of stain called a gram stain on the droppings. As microscopic examination of the feces to check for parasites, or may need to culture the droppings if he suspects a bacterial or yeast infection.
Can my bird be treated?
Most birds with abnormal droppings are successfully treated once the cause of the abnormal droppings is detected. As an owner, your cooperation in agreeing to the recommended tests is critical in allowing the doctor to correctly diagnose and treat your bird.
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Household Dangers
General Information
Birds are naturally mischievous and will get into many predicaments. It is crucial that you "bird proof" your home. The bird's cage is its house and the confines of your home, represents the bird's environment. There are many dangers within these surroundings.
Temperature and Humidity
Moderate and gradual changes ranging from 10 - 20°F (2 - 5°C) in temperature are usually tolerated very well by a healthy bird. Sick birds will need a more consistently warm temperature. Humidity in the range of 40 - 50% is ideal for most birds. It is better to have too much humidity than have the environment too dry. If allowed to bathe in the hot sun, a bird must always have access to shade in the event it should become over heated.
Drafts
Birds should always be free from drafts such as those created around windows, outside walls, radiators and air vents.
Air Pollution
Birds have a very efficient respiratory system and are very sensitive to pollutants in the air. Birds are exceptionally susceptible to second-hand smoke. Cigarettes, cigars and pipes should not be used around your bird. Cooking fumes, gases such as carbon monoxide, volatile cleaning products, paints, varnishes, fire place fumes and dirty household air ducts may cause respiratory problems.
Paints, Varnishes, etc.
Generally, if you can smell it, then consider it unsafe for the bird. Ventilate the environment well after use of any of these products before returning the bird to the area. Contact the company that produces the product for specific recommendations.
Teflon
Over-heated Teflon-coated cooking appliances release a toxin that does not seem to affect humans but will cause death to a bird within 24 hours.
Kitchens
Generally speaking, it is unwise to house a bird in the kitchen, as there are too many potential hazards. Teflon as described above is a priority concern. Hot stove elements, open pots of hot soups or sauces and even a sink full of water may be possible dangers. All cleaning products present possible hazards including oven cleaners.
Bathrooms
Open toilet bowls and full sinks or bathtubs are possible perils to a bird. Pet birds do not swim well and excessively hot water may severely burn a bird. There are often dangerous cleaning products in a bathroom as well. Various drugs that are kept around most households are potential dangers to your bird. Keep these products locked up and away from your bird.
Oil or Grease
Whether hot or cold, oil and feathers do not mix. Do not use oil or grease based medicines on a bird for any reason. Oils will mat down feathers, decrease their insulation qualities and make a bird susceptible to chills leading to other health problems. Examples of products to avoid include Vaseline, mineral oil, oil based ointments or salves (including some sold in pet stores), cooking oils, cod liver oil and certainly motor oils.
Other Pets
Cats, dogs and ferrets can be a potential danger to your bird. These animals have a natural hunting instinct and your bird may become the victim. Never leave these animals alone together unattended. In general, smaller birds are at greater risk but why take chances with any bird?
Mirrors and Windows
Birds may not initially master the concept of glass or mirrors. To the bird, there is nothing solid there. No barriers are perceived. Curtains, shears or some object in from of these surfaces will provide some objectivity for the bird.
Fish Bowls
Any open container of water should be considered a danger zone. If the bird should fly in it, it may drown.
Noise Pollution
Birds generally seem to enjoy a certain amount of commotion and may become vocal and playfully excited by vacuuming, the sound of an electric razor or the normal activities of people about the house. Excessively loud noise from televisions, stereos, construction or even appliances such as vacuum cleaners or food processors may cause undue stress to some birds. Remember the bird is captive in your home and cannot freely escape these sounds. Exposure tt noise should be limited to the bird's normal waking hours.
Plants
See Plants and Foods Toxic to Pets article.
Fans
Never allow a bird to fly while a fan of any sort is running. The bird cannot see the blades while they are in motion.
Stucco Ceilings
Although normally very skilled and graceful at flight, a bird may occasionally strike objects or surfaces while exercising. Stucco ceilings may act like sandpaper on the top of the bird's head as it moves along at high speeds. Try to make these rooms "out of bounds".
Electrical Cords
Birds love to chew and the soft, rubbery, chewable coating of electrical cords may be a very enticing play toy for your bird. Due to the potential danger of electrocution, facial burns and even a serious fire hazard, electrical cords must be hidden away or unplugged.
Open Windows, Doors
Either the bird's wings are clipped or all windows and doors are kept closed all the time. Once a bird escapes and is sitting at the top of a neighbor's tree, even the friendliest bird may have a difficult time finding reason to come home. Do not take chances.
Lead and Zinc Poisoning
If lead is around, your bird will find it! Lead is commonly found in many places around the house. Examples include curtain weights, solder on cages or plumbing, older paints, batteries, pellets from air rifles, Tiffany lamps, stained glass windows, some costume jewelry and zipper teeth. Lead is soft, fun to chew on and easily swallowed. Also known as heavy metal toxicosis, lead and zinc poisoning is life threatening.
Toys
Most pet bird toys are considered safe for you bird. It is important that you check all toys for loose clasps, removable or chewable parts and sharp edges before offering them to a bird.
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Proventricular Dilatation Disease
General Information
First recognized in the early 1970's, proventricular dilatation was originally called "Macaw Wasting Disease", as the disease caused a gradual wasting of macaws. Since that time, the disease has affected many species of pet birds.
What is proventricular dilatation syndrome?
Proventricular dilatation syndrome is a condition affecting the nerves supplying the gastrointestinal tract of birds, mainly the proventriculus or true stomach. Nerves supplying other organs may also be affected, and in some cases an encephalitis (inflammation of the brain) may also occur.
What causes the condition?
It is unknown what is the exact cause of proventricular dilatation syndrome, although a virus is suspected. To date, no one virus has been isolated from birds with the condition. Microscopically, the affected nerves are inflamed with an infiltration of certain types of white blood cells.
What are the signs of birds affected with proventricular dilatation syndrome?
The old name, "Macaw Wasting Disease", aptly describes affected birds. Birds have a lack of appetite, show regurgitation, may pass undigested seeds in their feces, and exhibit weight loss. Neurologic signs such as seizures or tremors may also occur. No one sign is definitive for the condition; however, proventricular dilatation should be suspected in birds with chronic unexplained regurgitation, weight loss, and any time undigested foods are seen in the droppings.
How is the condition diagnosed?
Clinical signs may suggest proventricular dilatation syndrome. Radiographs (X-rays), including a barium series may also strongly suggest the condition. The only definitive way to diagnose proventricular dilatation syndrome is with a biopsy of the proventriculus, although a biopsy of the crop (grinding part of the stomach), which is easier to perform, is accurate most of the time.
How do birds acquire the condition?
Because we don't know the exact cause, it's unknown how the condition is spread. Not all birds that are exposed to an infected bird will develop the condition, although the condition can spread throughout a flock of birds. To be safe, birds diagnosed with proventricular dilatation syndrome should be isolated from healthy birds.
Can the disease be treated?
There is unfortunately no treatment for affected birds. Supportive care, including treatment of secondary diseases and forced feeding as needed, can be given, but the condition is ultimately fatal.
Parrot Fever (Chlamydiosis or Psittacosis)
General Information
Chlamydiosis, also called "Psittacosis" or "Parrot Fever", is a common disease of birds. The disease can cause chronic infections, asymptomatic infections, or sudden death. The disease can also be transmitted to people. It is not associated with the venereal chlamydia that affects people.
What causes chlamydiosis?
Chlamydiosis is caused by an organism called chlamydia psittici. This organism is similar to a virus or bacteria but is different enough to be classified within its own special group. Like a virus, but unlike many bacteria, it lives right inside the cells of the bird, which makes it difficult to kill with treatment.
What are some common signs of chlamydiosis in birds?
Chlamydiosis can cause many different signs, and therefore should be suspected in any sick bird. Commonly, chlamydiosis causes chronic respiratory (sneezing, runny eyes or nose) or gastrointestinal (change in droppings) signs. Classically, chlamydiosis causes lime green or yellow feces and urates (the normally solid white part of the droppings) due to chlamydial infection of the liver. However, this is not seen all the time and other diseases can also cause these discolored droppings. Chlamydiosis can also be carried asymptomatically by birds, which means they carry the infection, spread it to other birds (and people) but are not sick themselves. This is a good reason for testing all birds for chlamydiosis.
How is chlamydiosis diagnosed?
Several tests are available for diagnosing chlamydiosis. Blood tests can usually tell if your bird is infected even if it is not sick. Sick birds can have their feces checked for the organism as well; however, this test will be negative if the bird is infected but not shedding the organism. As a rule, most healthy birds are checked by one of the available blood tests, and in sick birds, the feces can be checked for a faster result. Finally, special tests can be performed on the liver, spleen, heart, and air sacs of birds that have died to check for a chlamydial performed infection.
How is chlamydiosis treated?
Some doctors use an oral drug called doxycycline; others use an injectable version of the doxycycline, although this may not be available where you live. Since the doxycycline only kills the chlamydia when they are active and dividing, and the chlamydia often cease being active for periods of time, the drug must be used for minimum of 45 days. Since doxycycline often predisposes to yeast infections, your bird should also take an antiyeast drug called nystatin during the treatment. After the 45-day treatment, the bird must be retested for chlamydiosis to make sure the treatment was effective.
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Taming, Training, and Talking
General Information
It is very desirable to have a tame, affectionate and interactive bird as a family pet. Small birds such as finches and canaries may prove very difficult to befriend. There are many methods and opinions described by various people to tame and train birds. Discuss this with your veterinarian. This handout is designed to give some guidance to you during this process. Your patience may be strained and bites sustained but the rewards of your new relationship with your pet are fulfilling and long lasting. The ultimate goal is to earn the bird's trust and respect.
Where do I start?
When selecting a pet bird, try to choose a young bird as it will be easier to tame and train. Older, wild, colony or parent raised birds may prove difficult to tame. Hand raised babies usually make better pets as they have been completely socialized with humans. Young birds are easier to tame and adapt readily to new environments and situations.
After purchasing a new untamed bird it is wise not to bother the bird for 1 - 2 weeks to allow the bird to become accustomed to its new environment. Remember that you and the bird are strangers and need to get to know each other. Everything is new to the bird. The activities in the house, the people, sounds, smells and routines are all new experiences. It is important not to alarm the bird with sudden movements or loud noises. Taming and training can begin when the bird appears to be settling comfortably into the new surroundings.
It may be wise to have the wings trimmed by your veterinarian. This will usually make the bird more dependent on you during the taming process.
Birds can bite and even a small bird such as a budgie or a cockatiel can break the skin. Although gloves may provide some protection from most bites, a bird may become frightened of them and may not distinguish between the 5 fingered shape of the gloves and the 5 fingers of your hand. You do not want the bird to become fearful of your hand.
Do not stress the bird. A couple of 15 - 20 minute sessions per day is a good start.
How do I hand train my bird?
Having the bird become comfortable with the presence and closeness of your hand in the cage may be accomplished by getting the bird to take food out of your hand. The next step is to work slowly and gently train your bird to step onto a stick. Move slowly, but deliberately and talk quietly to the bird as you introduce the stick into the cage toward the bird's upper legs and lower chest area. Once the bird is comfortable perching on a stick, you can move the hand holding the stick closer to the bird until the hand replaces the stick as the perch. Remember that birds (especially the larger birds) use their beak as a third hand for balance and will often reach out to hang on while stepping up. You must attempt to show confidence and try not to move. Pulling away may frighten the bird and lead to a bite. The bird may also learn to control you by simply reaching out with the beak to make you "go away". Food may help to distract the bird as well as reward it. Friends and family should be coached and encouraged to work with the bird in the same way. You have now made great steps forward in the training process. Touching, petting, head scratching and snuggling will follow from here with persistence and patience.
What if my bird bites me?
If your bird tries to bite you, remember to keep your fingers together and curled inward. It is harder to bite a flat surface than individual fingers. Pull your hand a short distance out of his reach but hold your ground. If the bird does bite and holds onto you, try to remain calm while gently prying the beak open. A stern verbal "NO" is useful. NEVER hit a bird as they do not respond to this sort of discipline. They will lose their trust in you and may learn to fear hands.
How do I get my bird to talk?
Budgies, Cockatiels, Amazon parrots, African Gray parrots, Cockatoos and Macaws all have the capacity to "talk" or mimic. Some species speak better than others. Even among the same species, some individuals may never talk while others will not stop talking. Individuals may develop extensive vocabularies of words, songs, verse, whistles, sneezing, coughing and electronic noises such as telephones and microwave ovens. The bird is simply mimicking what it hears and will generally repeat sounds it hears frequently. Many words and sounds a bird learns are those that happen all the time, even though you did not sit down and "teach" the bird. Generally, males tend to be better talkers but there are wonderfully talented female talkers. Some suggest that you do not teach your bird to whistle since this is easy and may be preferred to talking. Once again, it takes
Introducing New Birds
Does my bird need a "friend"?
As a general rule you should only get another bird if you want another bird. You, as an owner, must accept the responsibility of caring for, feeding and loving additional pets in your home. There are certain species that may become more involved with each other therefore developing less of an interactive relationship with you and your family.
If you feel your bird is lonely or bored you should first consider providing more pet safe toys and entertainment for the bird or you may end up with 2 bored, lonely birds.
How do I introduce the birds?
All new birds should be checked by your veterinarian. A physical examination including a record of the current weight, will be performed. Certain tests may be recommended to help screen your new pet for evidence of possible disease. Your veterinarian can discuss this with you.
The new bird should be quarantined in a separate room within the house for 30 - 45 days. A new bird can have a relatively unknown history and may be carrying some disease that other birds may catch. Some people have experienced great tragedies by unknowingly introducing a sick bird without a quarantine period, only to have their own birds fall ill. Any evidence of ill health should be brought to the attention of your veterinarian immediately.
After the quarantine period, it is a good idea to put the 2 cages in the same room. Gradually move the cages closer to each other. Eventually, under strict supervision, the 2 birds may be introduced together while monitoring for bullying or fighting. Remember, the original pet has someone intruding on his/her territory. This may lead to certain challenges. Only the birds can decide who is the "boss" and establish who is to be at the top of the pecking order.
Will they get along?
You will find out. There is NO way to be certain they will like each other as they are all individuals. Some birds will never be friends and may only ever tolerate each other. Generally, most birds will accept the presence of another bird very well. Consult your veterinarian if experiencing problems.
My Bird Doesn't Seem Right:
Anorexia and Lethargy
General Information
Anorexia (a loss of appetite), and lethargy (a feeling of listlessness and general inactivity), are commonly seen in sick pet birds. While not diagnostic for any specific disease, they do indicate a severely ill bird that requires immediate medical attention.
What are the causes of anorexia and lethargy in birds?
There are many causes of anorexia and lethargy in pet birds. These include cancer, viral or bacterial infections, fungal or yeast infections, parasites, endocrine or hormonal diseases, and organ specific problems such as liver, heart or kidney failure. Some diseases such as proventricular dilatation do not have a known cause but can produce the signs of anorexia and lethargy. Anorexia and lethargy are not diseases themselves but indicate a serious underlying medical problem.
Do I have to take my bird to the doctor immediately, or can I just "wait and watch" and see if he improves?
Unlike dogs and cats, birds are still "wild" pets. This means that they still retain their preservation response. The preservation response is something unique to wild animals. In the wild, an animal can't "act sick," every time he feels bad. If it did, it might be killed by a predator or even a member of his own group. The preservation response assures that a sick animal will not "act sick" until it is really sick, and literally dying. Birds rarely get sick overnight. Because of their preservation response, they don't usually act sick until they are really sick. Therefore, a bird with anorexia and lethargy is EXTREMELY ILL and requires IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ATTENTION. Waiting and watching will only make things worse; you may actually wait and watch as your bird dies.
How will the doctor determine what's wrong with my bird?
Because many diseases can cause the signs of anorexia and lethargy, many diagnostic tests will need to be run. These can include blood tests, gram stains and cultures, fecal tests for parasites, yeast, and bacteria, radiographs (X-rays), and a psittacosis test among others. There is no one test to diagnose the many causes of anorexia and lethargy.
The doctor recommended hospitalization for my bird. Is that really necessary?
By the time many birds are seen by the doctor, they are literally dying. If your doctor recommends hospitalization, it is because your bird requires the type of critical care that cannot be given at home.
How are birds with anorexia and lethargy treated?
Treatment obviously varies with the cause of the anorexia and lethargy. In general, many of these birds are extremely ill. Hospitalization in an incubator, fluid therapy, force feeding, and broad spectrum antibiotic therapy are usually indicated. If the specific cause of the illness is determined, then medications used to treat the specific cause will be given as well.
Can I prevent any of the causes of anorexia and lethargy?
Yes! First, make sure you feed your bird properly. An all seed diet, predisposes birds to many of the causes of anorexia and lethargy. Second, all birds need an annual examination and laboratory tests. Often, abnormalities are discovered during these "routine" visits. When discovered early, treatment is usually easy and inexpensive. There's no need to wait until your bird is on death's door before he sees the doctor. By spending just a little money each year, you can detect diseases early and prolong your bird's life.
Egg Binding
General Information
While most female birds have no problems laying eggs, occasionally they may encounter difficulty. When detected early, the condition can usually be resolved easily. If a prolonged period of time has elapsed since attempts at egg laying began, the bird may become critically ill. Most owners are surprised that a female bird not exposed to a male will lay eggs. If owners keep in mind that human females ovulate regardless of the presence of a male, then it makes sense that a female bird ovulates without a male as well. The major difference is that the egg is microscopic in people and so not easily visualized, whereas in birds the egg is large, has a shell, and is expelled from the bird.
What causes egg binding?
Egg binding occurs when the female bird is unable to expel the egg from her body. There are numerous factors why this may occur. Many birds are improperly fed by their owners and eat nothing but seeds. Seeds are deficient in many vitamins and minerals, especially calcium, vitamin E and selenium. These vitamins and minerals are necessary for proper contraction of the muscles of the oviducts; improper muscle contractions can result in failure to pass the egg. Egg deformities may also occur. Obesity (from an all seed diet), lack of exercise, heredity, senility, and improper environment are other causes of egg binding.
Are certain birds prone to develop egg binding?
Yes. Budgerigars, canaries, cockatiels, finches, and lovebirds most frequently have problems related to egg laying, although any bird can become egg bound.
How can I tell if my bird is egg bound?
Many owners do not even know if the pet is a female, and often don't suspect egg binding as a cause of their pet's illness. Predetermining the sex of your pet bird by a simple blood test can aid the veterinarian in considering egg binding as a possible cause of your pet's illness.
Birds with egg binding are usually depressed, fail to perch, often sit on the bottom of the cage, and may strain as if trying to lay an egg. If the egg is putting pressure on the nerves that control the legs, paralysis may result. Since the signs associated with egg binding are also seen in sick birds with other causes of illness, diagnostic testing is essential in formulating a proper diagnosis.
How does the veterinarian diagnose egg binding?
During the physical examination the doctor may palpate (feel) the egg inside of the bird. Usually radiographs (X-rays) are needed to diagnose egg binding. Early diagnosis is important; smaller birds can die within a few hours of becoming egg bound.
How is egg binding treated?
Treatment varies with how sick the bird is when presented to the veterinarian as well as the location of the egg and the length of time the bird has been egg bound. Critically ill birds are first treated for shock and then attempts are made to treat the egg binding. Mildly affected birds may respond to supplemental heat, calcium, vitamin E, selenium, and vitamin D-3. Other injectable drugs may help cause the oviduct to contract and expel the egg. If the egg is near the cloacal opening, the doctor might be able to gently extract it. Eggs that do not pass with drug therapy require more aggressive treatment. The doctor may need to place a needle through the abdomen into the egg shell and aspirate the contents of the egg, causing the shell to collapse. The shell will usually pass out of the bird within a few days. Failing this, surgery may be performed to remove the egg or shell fragments.
Can egg binding be prevented?
Maybe. Certainly birds on a poor diet should have the diet changed following instructions from your doctor. Calcium, phosphorus, vitamin and mineral supplementation may be recommended. Obesity should also be corrected. Birds that are chronic egg layers might respond to hormonal drug therapy, although this can be associated with severe side effects. A hysterectomy can also be performed to prevent egg laying and egg binding.
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease
General Information
This disease was first described in Australian cockatoos in the early 1970's. Since that time, the disease has infected over 50 different species of birds. The virus causing the disease works slowly; the disease is often called "Bird AIDS" due to some similarities between it and the AIDS condition seen in people.
What causes beak and feather disease?
For many years, the cause was unknown. We now know that a virus causes the disease.
How do birds become infected with the virus?
Susceptible birds can become infected through the oral cavity, nasal passages, and through the cloaca (the common receptical in which the urinary, gastrointestinal and genital tracts empty). The virus is readily shed in the feces and in the crop. Viral particles in the crop (storage part of the stomach) may explain how the virus is passed from parents to offspring. High concentrations of the virus are shed in feather dust from infected birds.
What are the signs of beak and feather disease?
As is the case with the HIV virus in people, infected birds may take months to years before showing any clinical signs. Once signs are seen, most birds die from secondary infections within 6-12 months.
Clinical signs involve lesions affecting the beak, feathers, or both. Most commonly, young birds (less than 3 years old) are infected with the virus. Several forms of the disease may be seen; the forms of the disease are influenced by the age of the bird when infected.
Peracute Form: This occurs in neonatal (recently hatched) birds; signs seen are septicemia (bacteria and bacterial toxins in the blood stream) accompanied by pneumonia, enteritis (infection of the small intestine), weight loss, and death. The diagnosis is easily missed if a necropsy (post mortem / autopsy) is not performed on birds that die suddenly.
Acute Form: The acute form develops in birds infected in young birds as they develop their first feathers. Depression followed by grossly formed developing feathers and often death is seen.
Chronic Form: This form occurs in older birds and is seen as abnormal feathers during molts. Short, clubbed feathers and deformed curled feathers are seen. If birds live long enough they may develop baldness.
Beak deformities may develop, and if they do, these occur after a long course of the disease where substantial feather changes have taken place.
How is the disease diagnosed?
A skin and feather biopsy can be used to eliminate other causes of abnormal skin and feathers. It is not 100% diagnostic for beak and feather disease but can be strongly suggestive of it. A blood test using a DNA probe is the best way to diagnose the disease; it is often performed at the time of the biopsy.
How do I know if my bird is infected?
Birds can be screened for the virus using a simple blood test. New birds should be screened for the disease; if the bird is infected, it probably won't show clinical signs for quite a while and the owner needs to be informed of this. Additionally, many new birds are sold with a health warranty. A bird testing positive should be covered under the warranty and the owner may decide to return it. Any owner purchasing a new bird would have the resident bird and new bird tested before bringing the new bird into the household.
How is beak and feather disease treated?
Unfortunately, there is no treatment for the disease and it is usually fatal. Supportive care can be given and can extend the life of the bird for quite some time. Infected birds should be kept separate from non infected birds as the disease is easily transmitted.
Buzz Bird Answers Your FAQs
Buzz, our hospital mascot, is happy to answer your bird questions.
Q: I’m feeding seeds and nuts to my parrots. Is this adequate?
A: Squawk! Your fine feathered friend is probably a "seed junkie" if that’s all he’ll eat. But this diet guarantees ill health and a shortened life span. I don’t want to make you feel bad, but malnutrition in birds accounts for 90% of all health problems. Seed and nut mixes will not let your bird watch his waist. These high fat foods can lead to fatty liver syndrome (big problem!) which can kill him. Also, seed diets lack at least 21 essential nutrients. What do I love? Besides a small amount of dark green and yellow veggies and fruit such as spinach, mango, and sweet potato (call me and I’ll send you a complete list), I love my Harrison’s complete diet. There are no additives or preservatives, and it is all organically grown. Why even my humans could eat it! And you only have to feed a little; for me that means 3 - 4 tsp. a day. But any brand of pelleted diet is better than seeds. And please, change uneaten food daily; you don’t like day old food, do you?
Q: Is it okay for my bird to go outside?
A: It’s one of my favorite places. I love the sights, smells and the sunshine. They make me feel so great. Birds need a full spectrum of light (which doesn’t come through a window). If not in an enclosure, be sure your bird’s wings are clipped (which is a good idea inside anyway, because we’re not so smart about ceiling fans, pots of boiling water, and other human hazards). Just please watch us so that we don’t have to fight any raccoons and we don’t get too hot or cold. Please ask us for a handout on safe trees and poisonous plants.
Q: Do birds need grit?
A: Ptooey! No! It can cause an impaction, or blockage, of the digestive tract. Then food can’t pass, and your bird can starve to death. Case closed.
Q: Should I add vitamins to my bird’s water?
A: In most cases, if your bird is on a good pelleted diet, extra vitamins are not needed. But if your veterinarian recommends them or the diet is inadequate they can be important. But please, don’t put them in the water. I hate drinking foul water. You see, they promote the growth of harmful bacteria. Besides, light quickly inactivates many vitamins in solution. My doctor says to sprinkle a vitamin powder such as Prime, over the wet food because it won’t stick to seeds.
Q: How can I judge my bird’s health by his droppings?
A: Droppings can tell a story about your bird’s general health. Know the appearance of the normal droppings. A sick bird may show a change in volume, color, consistency, or frequency. Normal droppings consist of feces (which change color with diet change), clear urine, and creamy white urates. When eating a formulated diet the appearance is usually soft and brown, but may be dry and black or green with a seed diet.
If you have any questions for Buzz, our bird expert on birds, please e-mail us.
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