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Page 1
Table of Contents for Pages 1, 2 and 3:
For more great bird articles and information on different bird breeds, go to the
For The Birds column written by our guest columnist, Sherry Dickinson, a bird breeder.
Check out the articles in Seasonal Concerns.
Great Nutrition for a Healthy Bird
General Information
There is a lot of information available about diets for pet birds and as time goes on, our knowledge continues to improve. This is due to heightened awareness of the importance of nutrition plus increased research involving pets and wild birds. As with all other animals, birds need a proper balance of carbohydrates, proteins, fats, vitamins, minerals and water. Different species of birds often require different foods.
Should I be concerned about what my bird eats?
Nutrition is the most commonly neglected element of owning a pet bird. Too often owners assume they are feeding a proper diet to their amazon when in fact they are not. It is a common source of many health problems. It is important to continually strive to improve your bird's diet. This will involve reading, carefully interpreting and integrating the information along with a certain degree of common sense. Above all, discuss nutrition with your veterinarian!
It is not good enough to feed a bird just to keep it alive; instead your goal should be to help it thrive and flourish. Your bird's entire health will depend on how well it is fed.
What does my parrot naturally eat?
Parrots eat a variety of seeds, nuts, fruits, vegetables, blossoms, and possibly leaf buds gathered in the tree tops. Some parrots are known to raid farmers' fields and cause considerable damage to crops. But parrots are vulnerable to calcium and vitamin A deficiencies as well as obesity. A well balanced diet must be maintained at all times.
What should I feed my parrot?
Seeds
Seeds are available everywhere, store well and are very convenient to feed. Although parrots do eat seeds, they would naturally consume a far greater variety of seed types in the wild as different plants come into season. An all seed diet tends to be high in fat and provides an imbalance source of nutrients that will lead to ill health and potentially shorten the life expectancy of your parrot. Peanuts and sunflower seeds are often chosen preferentially and are particularly high in fat as well as exceptionally deficient in calcium and vitamin A. This, of course, is what leads to further malnutrition. It is preferable to feed your bird a more nutritious and balanced diet. Seeds, if used at all, should never make up more than 10 to 15% of your bird's diet.
Formulated or Pelleted Diets
Pellets, crumble and hand-feeding mashes have been developed to meet all your bird's nutritional needs. Different formulations are available for different life stages and for the management of certain diseases. Hand raised babies are the easiest to start on a pelleted diet. Pellets are the ideal diet therefore you are encouraged to slowly train seed eating birds to a pelleted diet.
If there is more than one parrot in the cage, separate dishes should be used for each bird to ensure those birds at the bottom of the pecking order have a chance to eat. This may not be appropriate in a flock situation. Any food left over in the dish at the end of the day could suggest that too much were offered originally. In any case, add fresh food daily.
How do I convert my bird to a pelleted diet?
Converting seed eating birds (seed-aholics) onto a formulated diet is not always easy. Being a new item in the cage, pellets are not likely identified immediately as food. Slowly wean the bird off seeds over a period of weeks while having pellets constantly available in a separate dish. Some people mix the pellets in a reduced amount of seed, which may aid its acceptance in the cage, but rest assured, the bird will not accidentally eat a pellet. It may take days, weeks or months to modify a bird's diet. NEVER withdraw seeds entirely without first being certain the bird is eating the formulated foods plus some fruits and vegetables. Birds are stubborn, but can be trained. Remember, you train the bird, do not let it train you.
Consult your veterinarian if encountering any problems with this transformation or the health of the bird. This can be a stressful time for you and your parrot.
Fruits and Vegetables
As a general rule regarding food offered to a bird, any wholesome, nutritious food that you and your family eat, your bird can eat. Fruits, vegetables and greens should account for approximately 20 - 25% of the diet. Pale vegetables, with a high water composition (i.e. Iceberg or Head lettuce, celery) offer very little nutritional value. Avocado is reported to be potentially toxic.
All fruits and vegetables must be washed thoroughly to remove all chemicals and be cut into manageable pieces depending on the size of the bird. It is not necessary to take the skin off. They should be offered in a separate dish.
Here is a tip to help get your bird to eat fruits and vegetables. Treat your bird like a small child; offer a large variety of food items daily and never stop trying.
Water
Fresh clean water must be available at all times. Dishes must be cleaned thoroughly every day.
What about people food?
Follow the general rule discussed above and your common sense. Some birds even enjoy a small amount of lean meat, cheese or egg occasionally. Dairy products should be consumed in strict moderation. It would only be common sense that junk food and alcoholic beverages be avoided.
Will my bird have any different needs throughout its life?
Birds that are extremely young, stressed, injured, laying eggs or raising young may have certain special requirements. Consult your veterinarian in these situations.
Do I need to use a vitamin-mineral mixture?
If your bird is on a great diet, does it need extra vitamins, minerals or amino acids? There is much written about supplementation. The powdered supplements, such as Nekton-S® (by Nekton-Produkte) or Prime® (by Hagen), are often regarded as more stable. Apply these products directly onto moist food. Do not place in drinking water, as the vitamins will quickly degrade, and bacterial growth will be encouraged. Placing these powders on seeds or dried foods is of little value since it will ultimately end up on the bottom of the food dish. One opinion suggests that a bird eating 75 - 80% of its diet in the form of pelleted or formulated food may not need supplements. Specific vitamins or minerals may be more important at various times during a bird's life (e.g. egg laying - requires calcium supplementation). Your veterinarian can help you assess your bird's diet and its particular needs.
Feeding Tips
Always monitor the amount of food eaten every day by each bird.
Offer fresh water every day.
Offer fresh food every day.
Offer fresh fruits and vegetables every day
Clean all food and water dishes daily.
No to a food item one day does not mean no forever - KEEP TRYING!
Some suggested food items include:
- apple;
- apricots;
- asparagus;
- banana;
- beans (cooked) such as:
chick peas;
kidney;
lentils;
lima;
mung;
navy;
soy;
beet;
- blueberry;
- broccoli;
- brussel sprouts;
- cabbage;
- cantaloupe;
- carrot;
- carrot tops;
- cantaloupe;
- cherries (not the pit);
- Chinese vegetables,
i.e. bok choy;
- coconut;
- corn;
- dandelion leaves;
- endive;
- fig;
- grapes;
- grapefruit;
- kale;
- kiwi;
- melons;
- mango;
- nectarines;
- orange;
- papaya;
- parsnip;
- peaches;
- pear;
- peas;
- peppers (red, green & hot);
- pineapple;
- plum;
- pomegranate;
- potato;
- pumpkin;
- rappini;
- raspberry;
- rice (brown);
- romaine lettuce;
- spinach;
- sprouted seeds;
- squash;
- strawberry;
- sweet potato;
- tomato;
- zucchini.
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Converting "Seed Junkies"
A "seed junkie" is a caged bird that eats only seeds and nuts. This type of diet guarantees ill health and a greatly shortened life span for these pet birds. As a matter of fact, malnutrition in birds accounts for 90% of all health problems.
Seed and nut mixes are high in fat. Pet birds, given the opportunity, prefer these high fat foods and their addictive-like quality makes these birds hard to convert. So why even bother? Unfortunately, the high fat of these diets causes fatty liver problems and eventually this type of diet will kill your bird.
It is important to switch your bird to a healthier diet for a more active, playful, beautiful and healthy pet. Since seed diets lack at least 21 different essential nutrients, we recommend a complete pelleted diet. We feel that any pelleted diet is a huge improvement over seeds and nuts, but the best pelleted diet is Harrison's Bird Diets. HBD is made with organic, human-grade ingredients with added ingredients for better digestion and improved immune system.
Don't delay. Come in today to Harmony and we'll show you which diet we recommend for your bird.
And don't forget: your bird needs a yearly wellness exam and stool check just as your dog and cat do! We'd be glad to schedule one.
Making the switch
Introducing a new food is often a challenge. Many birds may require a little coaxing to try a pelleted diet for the first time.
Start with a bowl of the new food during the entire day and limit the normal seed diet to two 15-minute feedings (morning and evening) for the 1st 3 days.
Mix a small amount of Harrison's pelleted diet with a favorite food, gradually increasing the amount while reducing the other food to none.
Some birds benefit from having changes in the environment at the same time as a diet change so the food itself seems less frightening. For example, put the bird in unfamiliar surroundings, such as an empty aquarium or bathtub, and sprinkle the food on the bottom (near a small container of water). We're often very successful making the switch with birds that are boarding with us. You may want to consider this option.
Maintain close contact with one of our avian doctors. Watch for: unusual droppings other than a color change to pale brown; a fluffed up and sleepy bird; constantly searching for food.
Reprinted with permission from Harrison's Bird Diets "Your Special Bird's Diet" pamphlet.
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Wellness Visits Vital to Your Bird's Health
All birds should see an avian veterinarian within 72 hours of arriving at their new home. The procedures your veterinarian will elect to do depends on circumstances but in most cases, at least the first three items listed below will be suggested. All birds should also have a yearly wellness exam to help ensure a long, healthy life. Chances are your vet will help you identify health problems you weren’t even aware existed! Birds are expert at hiding illness, so preventative care is the key to good health.
Some tools to check your bird’s health:
- Comprehensive physical examination, including feathers, skin, eyes, nares, beak, oral cavity, ears, limbs, bones, feet and droppings for any signs of abnormalities.
At this time, your veterinarian will weigh your bird and discuss
with you its medical history (including possible exposure to toxins),
health care, nutrition, husbandry, behavior, preventative medicine
and how to enjoy your pet bird.
- Fecal examination: Gram's stain cytology, flotation and direct smear of the droppings are done to determine the relative health of the gastrointestinal system, to check for the presence of parasites, and to look for "good" and "bad" bacteria.
- Chlamydia (psittacosis) test- a disease people can also get.
- Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease Test
- Vaccination for Polyomavirus- an often fatal disease that can now be prevented. Two injections are given two
weeks apart to all species except budgerigars. An annual booster
vaccination is recommended.
- Baseline Normal Values should be established at the time of the
first visit as a basis for comparison if your bird becomes ill. Making
these comparisons helps to identify organ dysfunction as well as to monitor recovery following treatment. The baseline tests may include:
- Complete blood count (CBC),
- Blood chemistry profile to assess internal organ health, and
- Radiographs to evaluate the musculoskeletal system and internal organs, and to
search for signs of pathology including the presence of fractures, masses or foreign bodies.
- Culture and sensitivity - Cloacal (fecal) and Choanal (throat) to look for abnormal bacteria or fungi
Other procedures that can be done include determining the sex of your bird by blood test, and endoscopy for a clear magnified view of your bird's internal organs without a major surgical
procedure. A biopsy may be indicated in the case of illness.
Annual Rechecks continue the health care program and may help small problems from becoming big ones.
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Polyomavirus: Prevent this deadly disease
Polyomavirus is an extremely serious and often life-threatening disease of all psittacines, or parrot-like birds, as well as finches. Often there are no other signs besides sudden death. Some species of birds may die after showing symptoms such as depression, decreased appetite, weight loss, regurgitation, diarrhea, dehydration, delayed crop emptying, and bleeding under the skin.
Now there is good news to help combat this terrible and once hopeless disease. A vaccine has recently been released.
The vaccine is safe too. Over 15,000 doses of the vaccine are in use and no serious adverse reactions have been reported. Some bird owners have questioned whether the vaccine itself given to one bird can infect other non-vaccinated birds. You can relax; this inactivated vaccine does not cause release of the virus, so it will not transmit the virus to unvaccinated birds.
We advise that all birds in a household or aviary be vaccinated, especially before shipping. Routinely, two initial doses are needed, then a yearly booster. A certificate of vaccination is given out too. Our avian veterinarian can recommend specific guidelines for you, but in general it is suggested:
- Vaccinate all birds, especially before shipping.
- Clean and disinfect the environment using Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele.
- Quarantine new birds for 60-90 days.
- Use separate feeding utensils for each baby and disinfect after each use
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Choose the Bird That's Right for You
The following is a really good overview of many different types of companion birds. For additional, and more detailed information, go to our bird column, For The Birds!.
African Grey Parrot
Advantages: Good talker and great mimic, but usually not noisy. Lives long. Intelligent. Normally good breeders.
Disadvantages: Unreliable temperament. Often notorious feather plucker when neglected. Often one person bird.
Amazon Parrot
Advantages: Excellent cage and aviary bird. Many species have great personalities and are good mimics and talkers. Long lived. Intelligent.
Disadvantages: Hard to acclimate. Sometimes one-person birds. May become neurotic screechers when confined to small cages. Can be difficult to breed.
Cockatoos
Advantages: Affectionate, especially when hand-reared. Longevity. Highly intelligent.
Disadvantages: Many species are very noisy and not suitable as house pets. Often notorious feather pickers when neglected. Often one-person birds. Very destructive. Many suffer from psittacine beak and feather disease.
Macaws
Advantages: Affectionate and playful. Long lived. Very intelligent.
Disadvantages: Noisy and very destructive. Often feather pluckers. Difficult to breed. Require large cages.
Lovebirds
Advantages: Hand reared birds affectionate. Many color mutations.
Disadvantages: Not good talkers. May become less friendly with maturity.
Australian Parakeets
Advantages: Adapt well to captivity. Long breeding life. Highly prolific.
Disadvantages: Many larger species are aggressive; not suitable as house pets, except hand-reared birds.
South American Parakeets
Advantages: Beautiful colors and nice character. Very intelligent and inquisitive. Many are prolific breeders. Hand-reared birds make delightful pets.
Disadvantages: Very noisy. Often destructive. Not suitable as cage birds.
Lories & Lorikeets
Advantages: Colorful, intelligent, affectionate.
Disadvantages: Loud, messy, and require a unique diet
Cockatiels
Advantages: Excellent cage and aviary birds, especially for beginners.
Prolific breeders with many color mutations. Easy to tame. Will learn to repeat a few words when obtained young. Intelligent and affectionate.
Disadvantages: Sometimes noisy.
Quaker Parrots
Advantages: Affectionate usually to one person; can be great talkers capable of large vocabularies; inexpensive; clownish behavior. Average life span 15 years.
Disadvantages: Prone to cage aggression and hormonal swings. Can be noisy.
Conures
Advantages: Come in a wide variety of color and sizes according to the species. Can be very talented talkers and provide lots of
entertainment with their comical behavior. Relatively inexpensive. Average life span is 15 to 20 years.
Disadvantages: Some species can be very noisy. Can be destructive if not provided with many toys.
All characteristics listed in this article may vary according to the individual bird. Go to bird shows, talk to breeders and owners, read books, and discuss this decision with an avian veterinarian. It's important that you choose carefully because many birds live decades.
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Raising Baby
She came to me when she was just 7 weeks old, a strangely compelling creature that looked more porcupine than bird. But the large dark eyes, and the massive, shiny black beak gave her away. The peach-tinged feathers were erupting, stiffly encased in their sheaths, all over her little body. Her crest feathers were becoming a beautiful deep salmon color. She made a pathetic, raspy whine that begged for attention.
Little did I realize at the time that this helpless and endearing baby Moluccan cockatoo would take an enormous amount of energy, attention and worry for the next three months. As a new bird owner, I didn't realize at the time what I was getting myself into.
I asked one of our avian veterinarians here at Harmony Animal Hospital to check her out. Besides the complete physical exam and lab workup (see box on page 2), blood was drawn for a DNA test to determine my baby bird’s sex. When the test result came back and I found out I had a little girl, I named her Tuli after a mythological goddess of wild birds in Indonesia (the Moluccan’s native home). Everything seemed peachy!
Or so I thought. Weeks of three-times-a-day hand feedings in an already hectic schedule started to become burdensome. But I continued adjusting all other things in my life to give her the necessary exacting care she deserved.
I followed instructions to the letter. She was weighed, and her crop was checked before each feeding to be sure there was no crop stasis and she was gaining weight properly. The handfeeding formula (I like the Harrison’s) had to be stirred carefully after microwaving so that there were no hot spots which could cause crop burn. The formula was fed at a specific temperature (100 to 105 degrees F)and checked by thermometer. After feeding, I swabbed Tuli’s mouth out with dilute Oxyfresh Mint Mouthrinse so that there was no bacterial or fungal growth. I cleaned and disinfected all feeding bowls, syringes and her living quarters with Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele (a product I highly recommend you use to clean and disinfect your bird's cage and dishes safely and without fumes). I kept her environment at the appropriate temperature as well (90 to 95 degrees F), and draft-free.
If I was starting to wonder what I had taken on at this point, I was totally unaware of what was yet to follow when I tried to wean my very attached, clingy and dependent little charge. Cockatoos are known for being very difficult to wean because they crave almost constant attention. We struggled through weeks of her regurgitating her hand feeding formula, and extreme weight loss (hers unfortunately). There was also an incident with sour crop and that had to be treated as well. If not for the constant attention and advice of our avian vet, I am not sure if Tuli (or I!) would have survived.
I now know that already weaned birds bond beautifully with their new owners. It is not necessary for you to hand-feed.
If you are thinking about purchasing a parrot I highly recommend it; they make incredibly enjoyable pets. Tuli has been so much fun. But learn all you can about the type of bird that will fit into your lifestyle. And most of all, unless you plan on seeing your avian veterinarian often, I recommend that you buy your bird already weaned. It will love you just as much and you will be able to enjoy your bird with much less stress and worry!
Further information about weaning your bird:
When it is time to wean, stop the midday meal first. Offer plenty of a variety of foods in easily accessible dishes. Once your bird is eating these foods, stop the morning feeding. Offer a bowl of formula mash for the bird to eat in the morning. Gradually change that to moistened pellets, then dry pellets. Do not leave the mash in the cage for too long or it will spoil. Also, avoid getting your young bird used to seeds. Seeds should make up 15% or less of the diet. Once your bird is eating well, stop the evening feeding.
Hand-feeding Baby Birds
General Information
Hand-feeding baby birds is only a substitute for parent-raised birds but it does have certain advantages. The hand-raised baby usually makes a better pet as it has been completely socialized with humans. They grow up with no fear of humans or other potential dangers such as cats, dogs and young children. Hand-feeding is a huge responsibility and requires time, patience and a complete commitment. The little bird in your care is entirely reliant on you for everything. Hand-feeding is a job best left for the experienced bird breeder or aviculturalist. You may wish to contact your local bird breeder for help. This handout is designed to provide some guidelines.
When do I start hand-feeding a baby bird?
A chick may be removed from the parents any time before weaning but many suggest leaving the babies with the parents for up to 3 weeks. Older birds may prove to be more challenging in their acceptance of hand-feeding.
Where do I keep the baby bird?
Precise temperature and humidity is essential for optimal growth of newly hatched birds. Relative humidity greater than 50% is required initially. Hatchlings (no feathers) should be maintained at 95° - 97°F (35° - 36°C). As the chick gets older, it has a greater tolerance for temperature fluctuations. Generally, the temperature can be lowered one degree at a time every 2 - 3 days as the feathering progresses. Chicks with new feathers (pin feathers) should be fine at 75° - 85°F (24° - 30°C) depending on the development of the feathers. Fully feathered and weaned chicks can be maintained at room temperature. Always monitor your bird for signs of overheating or chilling. Wings extended or drooping and panting indicate overheating. Shivering and cuddling together indicate cold. Poor growth or poor digestion (delayed crop emptying) can suggest poor health or improper temperature and humidity. Good quality special brooders are available to carefully regulate air circulation, temperature and humidity. Paper towel, diapers, hand towels or other soft, disposable products can line the bottom of the brooder and provide secure, clean, dry footing for the bird. This bottom liner must be changed constantly to keep the bird clean. If the bottom texture is too smooth the chicks legs may splay out to the side leading to permanent deformity. You must check that there is nothing for the bird to get it's wings or legs stuck and which might cause injury or deformities.
What should I feed my bird?
There are numerous commercial hand-feeding diets available today. Choose one diet and use it until the baby is weaned. Changes in diet may be stressful on the baby's digestion. It is very important to discuss this with your veterinarian.
How do I feed my baby bird?
All food must be prepared fresh for every feeding. Food kept for the next feeding is an ideal place for harmful bacteria and yeast to grow. Any food prepared or heated in the microwave oven must be mixed thoroughly to blend hot and cold spots. Try to achieve food temperatures of 102° - 106°F (39° - 41°C). Use a thermometer. Food that is too hot will cause severe burns to the crop. Food that is too cold will not be accepted or digested well.
In general, the younger the bird, the thinner the mixture should be. A more dilute mixture (90% water) is required by the day old chick as it is still utilizing the yolk sac. Chicks older than one or 2 days should have food with 70 - 75% liquid.
Syringes are probably the preferred feeding tool but some still prefer a spoon with the sides bent up and inward. Accurate feeding volumes can be recorded with the syringe. Charting daily feedings is important. The natural feeding response of a baby bird is to rapidly bob the head in an up and down motion. This action can be stimulated with gentle finger pressure at the corners of the mouth. During this head bobbing the trachea is closed and large amounts of food can be given relatively quickly. If the bird is not displaying strong feeding response then do not attempt to feed as there is an increased chance of aspiration of food into the trachea and lungs leading to death. The best time to feed is when the crop is empty. When full, the crop is the sac that hangs over the front of the chest at the base of the neck.
How often and how much do I feed?
The amount and frequency of feeding depends on the age and growth rate of the bird, growth of the bird and the diet used. The frequency of feeding for young birds is greater than that of older birds. The following is a guideline. With newly hatched chicks, the yolk sac is the source of nutrients for the first 12 - 24 hours. Chicks under 1 week old should be fed 6 - 10 times per day (every 2-3 hours). In the first week of life, some feeding during the night may be beneficial. Chicks who have not yet opened their eyes may take 5 - 6 feedings per day (every 3-4 hours). Once the eyes open, 3 - 5 feedings (every 5 hours) are necessary and as the feathers start to grow in, feed 2-3 times per day (every 6 hours). The crop should appear full when done. Feeding between 10:00 p.m. and 6:00 a.m. is not necessary. The best indication of a healthy, growing chick is a good, strong feeding response at every feeding, the crop empties between feedings and regular droppings (feces) are noted. Monitoring and recording weight gain on a gram scale provides an accurate record of growth.
When do the birds wean?
When to wean is often a difficult decision for both the owner and the bird. As the bird gets older and develops a full compliment of feathers, weaning should be encouraged. Some babies start weaning themselves by refusing feedings. The bird should be offered a variety of formulated foods including fruits and vegetables at this time to encourage exploration and experimentation. As this food introduction continues you can slowly start to withhold some of the feedings starting with the mid-day feeding. As time goes on, the morning feeding may be withheld, and lastly the evening feeding. Some birds learn quicker by watching other birds or older babies eat.
Disinfecting?
Baby animals have poorly developed immune systems and are more susceptible to infections. The brooder should be disinfected regularly. All feeding utensils must be cleaned and stored in a disinfecting solution between feedings. The disinfectant should be changed every day to avoid contamination. Thorough rinsing is required before the next feeding. Using separate feeders for every individual bird is recommended.
What if something is wrong?
If you suspect something is wrong then immediately contact your veterinarian. Signs to watch for are included in the following list:
- chirping or crying all the time
- fussing a lot and not sleeping
- listless, droopy wings or head
- not accepting food
- no feeding response
- not emptying the crop
- poor weight gain
- abnormal growth
- abnormal posturing or wing and leg positions
- abnormal droppings
- wet area lying over the crop (may indicate a burn)
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Buzz Bird Answers Your FAQs
Buzz, our hospital mascot, has some answers for you about some of your bird questions.
We regret that we cannot answer personal questions about your avian friend. A thorough examination, comprehensive history, and possible laboratory analysis, is crucial to finding an accurate diagnosis.
Q: I’m feeding seeds and nuts to my parrots. Is this adequate?
A: Squawk! Your fine feathered friend is probably a "seed junkie" if that’s all he’ll eat. But this diet guarantees ill health and a shortened life span. I don’t want to make you feel bad, but malnutrition in birds accounts for 90% of all health problems. Seed and nut mixes will not let your bird watch his waist. These high fat foods can lead to fatty liver syndrome (big problem!) which can kill him. Also, seed diets lack at least 21 essential nutrients. What do I love? Besides a small amount of dark green and yellow veggies and fruit such as spinach, mango, and sweet potato (call me and I’ll send you a complete list), I love my Harrison’s complete diet. There are no additives or preservatives, and it is all organically grown. Why even my humans could eat it! And you only have to feed a little; for me that means 3 - 4 tsp. a day. But any brand of pelleted diet is better than seeds. And please, change uneaten food daily; you don’t like day old food, do you?
Q: Is it okay for my bird to go outside?
A: It’s one of my favorite places. I love the sights, smells and the sunshine. They make me feel so great. Birds need a full spectrum of light (which doesn’t come through a window). If not in an enclosure, be sure your bird’s wings are clipped (which is a good idea inside anyway, because we’re not so smart about ceiling fans, pots of boiling water, and other human hazards). Just please watch us so that we don’t have to fight any raccoons and we don’t get too hot or cold. Please ask us for a handout on safe trees and poisonous plants.
Q: Do birds need grit?
A: Ptooey! No! It can cause an impaction, or blockage, of the digestive tract. Then food can’t pass, and your bird can starve to death. Case closed.
Q: Should I add vitamins to my bird’s water?
A: In most cases, if your bird is on a good pelleted diet, extra vitamins are not needed. But if your veterinarian recommends them or the diet is inadequate they can be important. But please, don’t put them in the water. I hate drinking foul water. You see, they promote the growth of harmful bacteria. Besides, light quickly inactivates many vitamins in solution. My doctor says to sprinkle a vitamin powder such as Prime, over the wet food because it won’t stick to seeds.
Q: How can I judge my bird’s health by his droppings?
A: Droppings can tell a story about your bird’s general health. Know the appearance of the normal droppings. A sick bird may show a change in volume, color, consistency, or frequency. Normal droppings consist of feces (which change color with diet change), clear urine, and creamy white urates. When eating a formulated diet the appearance is usually soft and brown, but may be dry and black or green with a seed diet.
If you have any questions about your bird, please visit your avian doctor. Don't have one? Here is good resource to find an avian veterinarian near you.
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Click here or on the All Pets tab on the left for more articles relating to your pet.
For more great bird articles and information, go to the For The Birds column
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