Early Summer 2002

IN THIS ISSUE:
• Microchipping your pet
• Bathing your dog
• Smile!
• Care of the green iguana
• Help Rover beat the heat
• Shed Less treatment
• Twice a year heartworm dosing?
• Preparing for your new kitten
• Traveling with your pet
• Adopting a shelter pet
• Top ten TV shows produced by pets

Created for you by
Harmony Animal Hospital
1401 W. Indiantown Rd.
Jupiter, FL 33458
561-746-5501
http://www.petvets.com

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Each year, millions of dogs and cats are lost; in fact, this disaster strikes 1/3 of all pet-owning families. Of the millions of cats and dogs that are lost, only 10% are ever identified and returned to their owners. More pets lives are lost because owners did not identify them, than from all infectious diseases combined.

All pets should wear traditional collars with identification and rabies vaccination tags. A traditional collar; however, is not enough. These collars are often worn loosely and are easily removed. Cat collars are designed to break off if the animal is caught in a tree branch. When the traditional collar is lost, removed, or breaks off, nothing is left to identify the pet…unless, of course, the pet has a microchip.

Microchips are rapidly becoming a very popular method for identifying pets. Once the microchip is inserted, the pet is identified for life. Microchips are safe, unalterable and permanent identification for pets.

The microchip is a tiny computer chip or transponder about the size of a grain of rice. The chip is inserted under the skin between the shoulder blades of a cat, dog, or other pet, in much the same way that a vaccine is administered. The microchip is coded with a unique 10-digit code. Each microchip that is inserted contains a unique code, specific to the individual pet.

Microchip - Magnified

Inserting the microchip is simple and causes minimal discomfort. The microchip comes pre-loaded in a syringe, ready for insertion. The entire procedure takes less than 10 seconds. Post-injection reactions are very rare and the encapsulated microchip remains in place permanently.

The scanner is a hand-held device used to detect the message encoded in the microchip. The scanner is passed over the animal, paying particular attention to the area between the shoulder blades. If a microchip is present, the 10-digit number (encoded in the capsule) is read by the scanner. Scanners are provided to animal control, humane shelters and other rescue organizations so that all stray pets are scanned and those with microchips are reunited with their owners. Veterinarians can also purchase scanners for use in their hospital.

Scanner for Detecting the Microchip

The veterinary hospital where the microchip is implanted records the pet's information and it's unique microchip identification number. When a lost pet is found and scanned, the veterinary hospital is immediately contacted. Since most veterinary hospitals are not open 24 hours a day, it may take some time before you are notified. In addition to this standard registration, you should register your pet in your own name for a nominal charge. By doing this, as soon as your pet is found, you are notified.

Along with the additional registration fee, we recommend that you update your personal information with the microchip database on a regular basis. It is also advisable to have your veterinarian test the microchip on an annual basis in order to make sure that it is properly transmitting data.

When it's time to give your dog a bath, you should be well prepared for the process. Not only is it important to have the know-how for bathing your pet, it is also important to be well organized.

Dogs are not similar to people and should only be bathed when they are dirty or when they need a flea or medicinal bath. Over-bathing removes the natural oils in their skin and fur, and can leave the skin dried out and flaky. Dry flaky skin very often results in scratching. Frequent bathing also reduces the coat's insulating and waterproofing capacities. However, certain dog breeds that are prone to skin conditions benefit from regular bathing. Cocker spaniels, for example, benefit when bathed every 6-8 weeks.

When selecting a shampoo, it's best to use a good quality shampoo that is specifically formulated for dogs. Don't use a human shampoo. They are not formulated for the pH of a dog's skin or coat. A conditioner (also formulated for dogs) is a good idea, particularly if there are tangles and lots of knots.

To start, the best place to bathe your dog is in the bathtub or in a utility tub. If you plan to bathe you dog outdoors, make sure your hose has both hot and cold water. A cold bath is not only disagreeable, but can also cause rapid hypothermia. Bathing indoors is a challenge; as all escape routes need to be considered.

The following are some basic guidelines for bathing your dog:

• Brush all of the tangles out of your pet's coat before bathing, as bathing will just tighten them.
  
  
• Make sure that all your supplies are within reach before putting your pet into the tub. Dogs don't seem to remain in the tub very long when left alone. Your supplies should include shampoo, conditioner, scissors, several towels, cotton balls and a plastic container (for rinsing). If you are planning to clip the toenails, make sure that the nail clippers are also within reach (and the powder to stop the bleeding).
  
  
• A rubber mat should be placed in the bottom of the tub so your dog's feet don't slide around, and so he or she will feel more secure and safe. Most dogs don't want to be there in the first place, so you need to make them feel as comfortable as possible.
  
  
• Place one or several cotton balls in each of your dog's ears. Don't push the cotton too far down the ear canal; however, it does need to remain securely in place. The cotton helps keep water out of his or her ears. A drop of mineral oil or artificial tears (placed in the corner of each eye) prevents the shampoo from irritating the eyes.
  
  
• Properly lift your dog in the tub, avoiding injury to both you and your dog. Place one arm in front of the dog's chest and one arm behind the rear legs, just under the tail. Make sure you bend your knees (not your back) when lifting, particularly if the dog is heavy. If your pet is too heavy to lift by yourself, always get help. Nothing hurts more than an injured back.
  
  
• Turn the water on slowly and adjust the temperature. The water should be lukewarm. Thoroughly wet his or her coat down with the spray hose starting from the back end moving forward. Then, begin lathering your pet. Work the shampoo into a thick, rich lather. If you are using flea shampoo, some brands recommend leaving it on for several minutes. Read the directions on the container and follow them carefully or the results may not be achieved. Lather the main body, stomach, legs, feet, and tail.
  
  
• Finally, pour a small amount of shampoo into your hands and gently lather the fur around the face and on the head. Be careful not to get the lather into your dog's eyes.
  
  
• When rinsing, start with the head and work towards the rear. Cover your dog's eyes with your hand and gently rinse off the top of the head and around the eyes. Then, gently cover your dog's nose and rinse off the rest of the face and neck. Next, work your way down the body, making sure to rinse out all of the suds and shampoo.
  
  
• If you are applying a conditioner, now is the time. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations for applying the product. If a conditioner is applied, another rinse is probably necessary.

Remove the cotton balls from his or her ears and gently squeeze any excess water from the coat.

The drying process is generally the part that dogs like best. Most dogs enjoy getting a vigorous rub down. To finish drying your pet, a hair dryer can be used. Never use a high heat setting and pay careful attention. Dog fur is very flammable!!

If you have questions about the type of shampoo, how often to bathe your pet, or whether or not to use a conditioner, don't hesitate to call your local veterinary hospital. The grooming staff at Harmony Animal Hospital is extremely knowledgeable and is more than happy to assist our clients.

Pet Qualities

The green iguana seems to possess an intelligence not usually seen among reptiles. Iguanas can become quite tame and often will interact with their owners. Often, they're content to ride around on their owners' shoulders, and appear to delight in being rubbed or scratched gently. Iguanas won't, however, return affection in the way of nuzzling or cuddling. But they do tend to learn household routines, and will know when it is mealtime, bedtime or time to go outside. Iguanas are often happy to perch on the back of the sofa or curtain rod, surveying the goings-on in the home.

A note of caution: Some iguanas, particularly males, can become aggressive at times, especially during mating season. Before purchasing one, be sure that you can handle a six foot lizard with the potential for inflicting severe wounds. There are many iguana rescue clubs in the country, the end result of too many people buying a lizard without realizing the care that is involved. For inexperienced reptile owners, a better first choice would be the bearded dragon or the leopard gecko.

A tame iguana will allow itself to be picked up and held without struggling, scratching, tail whipping or biting. Most iguanas seem to be able to identify individual people, and will react quite differently with their owners than with strangers. While an iguana may allow itself to be handled by its owner, the tame lizard may not take kindly to being held by a stranger.

Because iguanas benefit greatly from direct unfiltered sunlight, taking your iguana outdoors for some supervised time in the sun is an excellent idea. Once an iguana has heated up, however, it becomes more alert and active and may bolt away from its owner. There are several different kinds of harnesses available, and if your iguana will tolerate one they're a great method of restraint.

Green iguanas are great pets for folks living in apartments, condos and townhouses. They are very quiet and rarely destructive. Their exotic appearance is very appealing to people with a taste for the unusual. Iguanas are not difficult to maintain as long as their physical needs are met adequately. However, meeting these physical needs: light, heat, and nutrition can be challenging for a new owner. Please discuss any question you have with a veterinarian.

Cage and Substrate

There are many suitable ways to house an iguana. Our advice to owners of new hatchlings is to buy or build the largest cage they can accommodate. Many owners start out by purchasing a glass aquarium. Unfortunately, even a 20-30 gallon tank will be rapidly outgrown by a robust lizard. Another problem with glass is that they are heavy and cumbersome to clean. However, it is easier to control and maintain the correct temperature for a hatchling if it is kept in a glass or plastic tank for the first few months.

A cage can be a simple structure, or it can be designed and constructed to complement any decor. Pet stores can sometimes order custom-built cages, and some custom cages are advertised in reptile magazines. Cages may have a wood frame, or frames can be constructed out of aluminum. Plexiglas or soft plastic mesh can be used to enclose the cage. Cages should be designed (or purchased) with ease of cleaning in mind. Because iguanas are arboreal, cages should be tall enough to allow them to climb. Cages should be at least two times the length of the iguana and as deep as the iguana is long.

The cage bottom should be lined with an absorbent material to facilitate cleaning. Newspaper or butcher paper is convenient, but paper is not always the most aesthetical choice. Other substrates choices are orchid bark, alfalfa rabbit pellets, plastic astroturf or indoor/outdoor carpeting. If carpeting or artificial turf are used, make sure that the iguana cannot eat the material. Some carpets tend to unravel; strands can be dangerous if ingested. Substrate material, such as gravel, corn cob bedding, crushed walnut shells or sand should never be used, because iguanas may ingest them, resulting in impaction or other gastrointestinal problems. Another substrate that should never be used is cedar shavings (the oil is toxic). Some iguanas tend to defecate in the same place every time, which makes clean up easier. Clean the cage regularly. Some iguanas do tend to relieve themselves in water, so by removing the animals from their cages and soaking them frequently, cleanup can be simplified.

Branches and basking areas should be provided. Shelves are often appreciated for lounging. A hide box should be available to the iguana where it can get out of view and feel secure. The hide box should be in a warm area of the cage. Live plants may be used for decoration and to provide a more natural setting. Be sure to choose nontoxic plants, because the iguana is sure to taste them. Silk plants are a poor choice since iguanas cannot distinguish between live and artificial and often try to ingest them.

Heat and Light

Iguanas, like all ectotherms, thermoregulate by moving toward or away from heat sources and temperature zones, and engage in basking. Each species of reptile has its own Preferred Optimal Temperature Zone (POTZ). An iguana must reach the POTZ for correct digestion, growth, reproduction, healing and for the proper functioning of the immune system. Wild iguanas derive their heat from above, from basking in the sun not from lying on rocks heated from the sun. It is best to provide your iguana with a full-spectrum, incandescent light bulb for basking. Hot rocks, or other methods for heating an iguana on the abdomen, are not the best choices. Iguanas also need ultraviolet light. Make sure that the lizard does not have direct access to the light bulb, but provide an area where it can bask close to the light. Purchase a fluorescent light designed for reptiles. Place it in the cage in a way that the light is not filtered through glass, plastic or tight weave screen. Ultraviolet light is necessary for the proper absorption of calcium. Lights should be turned on for 12 hours, then off for 12 hours. It is important to realize that there is no perfect artificial light that can replace natural sunlight.

To create a thermal gradient indoors, place a source of substrate heat (tape pads or rocks) and an incandescent light bulb in a reflector on one side of the cage. Place a couple of thermometers in different areas of the cage to measure temperature in different zones. During the day, the hottest temperature zone in the cage should be around 98.5 degrees Fahrenheit, and the lower zone should be 80 degrees Fahrenheit. With this range of temperature, a healthy iguana will be able to maintain its body temperature at the correct level for proper internal functioning. In addition to lighting, a ceramic heater that screws into a regular light socket is an excellent addition to the cage to provide heat, but no light, for cool nights when supplemental heat is needed. Substrate heaters should be left on 24 hours per day, but all light bulbs should be turned off at night. At night you are shooting for a 10 to 15 degree drop from daytime temperatures.

The last consideration regarding heat and light is ventilation. There should be adequate ventilation and circulation of air in the cage to prevent high humidity that will encourage the growth of pathogens. Humidity should be in the 50 to 70 percent range.

Diet and Nutrition

Iguanas are vegetarians, specifically folivores. Folivores eat leaves primarily. They are hindgut fermenters, and to correctly process their food, they do require high environmental temperatures. Older books describe hatchling iguanas as insectivores that become herbivores as they mature. Although this is incorrect, it does not mean that a pet will not develop a taste for inappropriate food items. Feeding an iguana anything but vegetable matter or commercially prepared iguana diets should be strictly forbidden.

Hatchlings up to 14 inches should be fed finely chopped food twice daily. Juveniles up to 3 feet in length should be fed fine to medium chopped food once daily. Adults over 2 1/2 years of age or over 3 feet in length can be fed coarsely chopped food every other day. All plant material should be washed and chopped in a food processor to thoroughly mix the ingredients and prevent the iguana from selecting specific items.

Approximately 50 to 60 percent of the diet should consist of dark-green leafy veggies. Choose at least two of these: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, bok choy, Swiss chard, dandelions greens, escarole, parsley and alfalfa pellets. Beet greens and spinach contain oxalates that bind calcium, so these greens should only be offered occasionally. Kale, Brussel sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower bind with iodine and should be offered sparingly. Approximately 30 to 40 percent of the diet should be chosen from this list: frozen mixed vegetables, squash, sprouts, carrots, cooked sweet potato, green and red peppers, peas, beans, corn, and green beans. Fruits should make up to 10 to 15 percent of the diet and may include papayas, mangos, apples, peaches, pears, plums, strawberries, bananas with the skin, tomatoes, grapes, kiwi, blueberries and guavas. Whole grain breads and natural bran cereals can be offered in moderation. In place of grains, commercially prepared iguana food can be a nutritious part of the diet. Iguanas often enjoy hibiscus flowers and leaves, rose petals, geraniums, nasturtiums, squash blossoms and carnations. These can be offered for variety but should not be fed daily.

Most iguanas obtain water through the water content in the foods they eat, so many won't drink from a dish or tub. If a commercial diet is fed, keep in mind that most are fed dry, which will decrease the lizard's water intake. It may be better to feed a canned moist food or to moisten the dry diet prior to feeding.

Live food is not necessary for green iguanas. Some enjoy crickets or pinkie mice, but these sources of animal protein are poor dietary items for this species.

Handling Hints

Iguanas should never be picked up by the tail. The tail of a young iguana may break off. The tail will regenerate, but will not grow back as long or as brightly colored as the original.

Encircle hatchling iguanas gently with your hand to prevent them from darting free. Larger iguanas should be held so the whole body is supported. This makes them feel more secure. Don't pick up iguanas by their limbs; this can cause injury.

Frightened iguanas may try to bite or scratch. Bites from large specimens can be quite painful and inflict serious wounds. Scratches can hurt, and a whip from the scaly, powerful tail can raise a welt. You may want to consider having your iguana's nails clipped periodically.

Zoonotic Diseases and Precautions

Green iguanas can harbor bacteria that can cause disease in humans. One genus of bacteria, Salmonella, is most dangerous in immunosuppressed adults, infants, children and geriatrics. Tests for Salmonella can result in false negatives, so it's best to assume that all iguanas are potential carriers. To minimize risk of exposure, do not clean reptile equipment and supplies where food is prepared for humans. Do not share sinks and bathtubs to soak or clean tanks. Wash hands thoroughly after handling an iguana, and don't touch your face prior to washing with antibacterial soap. Do not allow young children to handle iguanas until they can understand the concept of correct handling and sanitation.

Pinworms and roundworms found occasionally in green iguanas are not transmissible to humans. Rarely, intestinal protozoa may be found in green iguanas that can be contagious to humans.

Bathtubs, sinks or other areas where the iguana has been should be disinfected with bleach solution (1/2 cup to one gallon water). Be sure to rinse well after bleaching.

Reproductive Problems

Reproductive problems are common in many female iguanas. Many will lay eggs, even without the presence of a male (similar to chickens). For many iguanas, the stress of laying eggs in an artificial environment can shorten their life dramatically. It's best to schedule a veterinary appointment to discuss the best care, and often the best advice is to get her spayed. The procedure is similar to that of spaying a dog or cat, and at Harmony Animal Hospital our laser surgical equipment makes the procedure safer than it's ever been.

Male iguanas can also be neutered, which will often lead to a calmer disposition with less aggressive tendencies towards humans. Please consult with Dr. Kevin Oppenheimer for more details about surgery for your reptile, or any husbandry issues .

For additional information about iguanas, go to our
Exotic Pet Care Library.


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People usually prepare themselves for the dangers of increased temperatures. But as the dog days of summer approach, our trusted companions also need special attention to insure that they don't get burned. The summer months bring an increased danger of heat exhaustion and heat stroke for dogs.

People naturally regulate their body temperature by sweating. Dogs mainly cool themselves by panting- breathing in through the nose and out through the mouth. The process of panting directs air over the mucous membranes (moist surface) of the tongue, throat and trachea (windpipe). The air that is flowing over these organs causes evaporation, thus cooling the animal. Another mechanisms that helps remove heat includes dilation of blood vessels in the skin of the face, ears and feet. Dilated blood vessels located on the surface of the body cause the blood to loose heat to the outside air.

However, just like people, dogs can become overheated. A dog's normal body temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If it rises to 105 or 106 degrees, the dog is at risk for developing heat exhaustion. If the body temperature rises to 107 degrees, the dog has entered the dangerous zone of heat stroke. With heat stroke, damage to the body can be irreversible. Organs begin to shut down, and veterinary care immediately needed.

Fortunately, if owners recognize heat exhaustion, they can prevent the dog from entering heat stroke. People can easily recognize when the heat gets to them because they become lightheaded and fail to sweat. For dogs, early signs of heat exhaustion may include failure to salivate and a dry tongue. Heat exhaustion may also include a dog lying down and looking tired, losing its appetite, and becoming unresponsive to owners.

If heat exhaustion progresses into heat stroke, the dog becomes very warm to touch and may have seizures. Internal mechanisms roll into effect that may cause blood clotting and organ damage. If you are near a phone and think that heat stroke is a possibility, call your veterinarian immediately. If a veterinarian is not within reach, or while waiting for a veterinarian, get the dog out of the sun and cool him (her) down with cool water baths (cool - not cold). Provide a fan, especially if you wet the dog down, and encourage him (her) to drink small amounts of water at a time.

While these steps may help a dog, the best treatment is prevention. In order to prevent overheating, some owners may shave their dogs or trim their fur excessively. This isn't always a good idea. The hair coat may appear to be a burden for a dog however, it can also keep the animal comfortable by trapping cool air next to the skin, reducing the amount of heat transferred from the hot outside air to the body of the dog.

Dogs with long or thick coats that have problems with matted hair are often good candidates for clipping. Matted hair can cause skin irritation and is undesirable. Owners that do not have time to adequately remove mats and debris from their dog's coat may prefer to have the coat clipped short. After a short clipping, and if the dog is outdoors, owners need to be careful of sunburn. Sunscreen may be applied to the dog's skin, however it is necessary to consult a veterinarian to find out which ones are safe.

Here are some other tips for keeping your dog cool this summer:

· Keep dogs indoors, in air conditioning, on very hot days.

· Do not leave dogs in a car during the summer. Even with the windows down, temperatures inside a car can quickly rise to above 120 degrees. · Make sure outdoor dogs have plenty of shade.

· Keep fresh water available for dogs at all times.

· Exercise dogs early in the morning or late in the evening. If this is not possible, exercise in an air conditioned environment.

· On very warm days, provide your dog with a sprinkler or wading pool.

· If you take the dog to a lake, make sure it has plenty of time to drink and get wet. Most dogs can drink lake water without adverse effects. Do not let your pet drink sea water.

· If the dog has a light coat or exposed skin, take precautions against sunburn.

· Dogs can acclimate to warm temperatures and have no trouble staying outdoors in the heat. However, dogs that are used to cool climates or air conditioning should not be placed outside on warm days. Acclimating the dog gradually is the key.

Here's more on summer care.

Harmony Animal Hospital announces Proheart 6, a revolutionary medication for preventing Heartworm Disease. ProHeart 6 is the first heartworm prevention medication that provides six months of continuous protection in one dose.
Click here for more details.
Learn more about heartworm disease.

We recommend the the following items for your new kitten:

A Litterbox that is the right size for the age of the kitten. Avoid boxes that are too deep and thus might be difficult for your new kitten to climb into.

Litter for the litterbox - you may be surprised at how picky some kittens can be. Some cats prefer the very fine grain litter and some prefer the coarser types. Don't give up if your kitten does not seem pleased at first. Most kittens will definitely let you know when you have hit upon the right mixture. The breeder can let you know what the kitten is used to.

Scratching Posts (Or Some Type of Cat Furniture) - They are invaluable in your training your kitten to avoid harming your furniture. Scratching their claws is a healthy, natural instinct for cats and providing them with the right place to do that will keep you and your kitten happy. Be aware that some cats prefer rough surfaces like sisal rope white others go crazy for plain old carpet (the kind on your floor if you don't have a scratching post!!)

Grooming Tools suitable for the breed of your kitten - A brush and comb are indispensable for a long-haired kitten / cat, or flea comb or special brush for short-haired cats. You'll also need clippers for their nails (human nail clippers are not recommended). Purchase clippers made especially for cats. These can be found in most quality pet stores or veterinary hospitals. Trimming the nails is an important part of feline grooming. We also recommend discussing teeth brushing with your veterinarian. This requires a special toothbrush and toothpaste.

Food and Water Bowls - Believe it or not, there is a difference even in the type of food and water bowls you provide for your kitten! Certain types of plastic, wood, and even some types of ceramic bowls may contain tiny cracks that can harbor potentially harmful bacteria. Most professionals recommend using glass and stainless steel food and water bowls. These bowls should be cleaned regularly (the dishwasher is great). Make sure the bowls are not too high for your kitten to reach. Since cats love running water, you may want to purchase a Drinkwell Pet Fountain for your pet. This water runs continuously through a filter keeping the water clean and cool.

TOYS, TOYS, TOYS - Just as human babies love to play, so do kittens. It is their survival instinct and throughout their lives, kittens and cats emulate hunting in their play. Providing them with suitable toys helps to ensure they fulfill this need. You will need to be very selective in the type of toys as kittens do love to chew and nibble. Avoid purchasing toys with small strings or beads that can be swallowed easily. Toys don't have to be expensive to be appreciated by kittens and cats. Wand toys should only be used with your supervision to avoid your kitten or cat getting wrapped up in the long string.

Cat Carrier (Pet Taxi) - You'll need to have a carrier for safely traveling with your kitten, as well as trips to the vet. There is also a new "Pet Seat" available, which secures your kitten / cat (up to 30 pounds) in your car, allowing for more interaction between you and your kitty.

Food - Check with the breeder or veterinarian to be sure you have the proper food on hand. Changes in diet and water, even litter and environment, can cause minor diarrhea and other problems. We recommend Hill's Kitten formula. It also doesn't hurt to pick up a few bottles of Pedialyte liquid to keep in the cupboard in case of diarrhea and / or dehydration.

Bedding - A nice cozy bed is a great idea for the new member of the family. Your kitten will soon know that this is her / his special place. Choose a bed that is well constructed and one that is machine washable.

Americans are crowding the highways for summer vacation, taking their four-legged friends along for the ride. But before pet lovers hit the road, it's important to take their pets' needs into consideration.

Trips should be as close to your pet's normal routine as possible. If you've never traveled with your pet, start with very short, round-the-block trips before you put them in the car or truck for the long ride. Your veterinarian can give you some good advice and recommend ways to make your pet more comfortable.

For the safety of both you and your pet, it's best to travel with dogs and cats in pet carriers. In case of an accident, airborne pets are very prone to injury. Carriers are especially important for cats. Many cats will ride on your shoulder, on your head, or get under your feet. It's a potentially dangerous situation if you need to stop quickly and they are under the brake pedal.

Though keeping a pet "strapped down" for safety is important, people should not use standard safety belts on their pets. These belts are designed for human positioning. Dogs don't conform to human positioning with much success. However, there are canine "seat belts," which are actually harnesses that attach to the car's seat belts and may be used to hold dogs in place during the trip.

Owners should also plan for extra stops if pets accompany them on a trip. Because of stress, some cats don't eat or drink and won't need to use the litter box. But it should be provided for them, especially if it's your first trip with your cat. If they don't use it, take them out at rest stops on a leash and see if they'll go.

The number of stops depends on what your pet is used to. Most pets eliminate shortly after they eat. Therefore, if you can control when the food goes in, you can usually control when it goes out.

In terms of exercise, owners should follow their pet's normal schedule. If you take your dog for a 30-minute walk in the evening at home, take the dog for a walk in the evening at your destination. Also, exercising your dog before it gets into the car may make the trip more relaxing for both you and your dog.

Many pets enjoy getting out of the house, even for a trip to the veterinarian if you made it fun in the past. But if you're planning to drive non-stop, or if you're taking a very short trip, it is probably best to leave the pets at home. Really think if it's necessary for a pet to go with you, or if you are just being selfish and want the pet for company. A trip can cause unneeded stress on an animal.

It is an especially good idea to leave pets at home if they have current health problems that may worsen on the trip. For instance, if a pet has had respiratory problems and the trip is in the mountains, it may be better to leave that pet at home. If you know what direction you're traveling on a long trip, choose towns along the way that have easy access to veterinarians. This is particularly important if your pet has had a recent illness or problems traveling in the past.

If you're concerned about the pet having motion sickness or getting car sick, talk to your veterinarian about a prescription for a tranquilizer or sedative to calm the pet before the trip. Before giving any type of medication, contact your veterinarian to make sure that it is safe.

Finally, it's a good idea to call ahead and make reservations with hotels, motels and campgrounds that accept and welcome pets. Take the necessary supplies, including plastic bags, to clean up after your pet at rest areas.

If you decide not to take your pet with you, consider boarding care. If you're local, you may want to check out our comfy care, including our new Ritz Harmony Luxury Suites! You can even view your pet online while your vacationing by reserving our webcam!

For more information on traveling with your pet.

Adopting that cute puppy or cuddly kitty at the animal shelter may take a little more thought than just purchasing a dog license.

According to most pet professionals, there are a few factors that you should take into consideration when you adopt a pet from an animal shelter.

It is sometimes very difficult to predict how big a puppy is going to get by looking at it. That's surprising to say, but with a mixed-breed animal, you really don't have a clue how big it's going to be. Unfortunately, there are a lot of unhappy owners once they find out that this animal is two to three times the size that they had expected. Ultimately, these animals end up back at the animal shelter because they grew up and didn't fit in the household anymore."

Often, animal shelter employees make a guess at how old the animals are, but they're not really sure if it's a six-week-old puppy or a 10-week-old puppy.

If the animal looks like it's a Great Dane, you probably could make a good guess, but with many of the mixed breeds, you don't know the heritage.

Many owners place animals in shelters because the pets exhibit behavior problems. However, there are behavior traits that may not be detected by just looking at the animal.

Often, the animals are in the shelters because they have had some behavioral problem that was either unacceptable to the owners or the apartment manager. For example, housetraining... there are probably several animals out there that owners were unable to housetrain or housebreak properly. Instead of continuing to have the animal ruin the carpet, the owner took the pet to the animal shelter. Others are strays that have been picked up, therefore you have no idea of why they were loose or why they were a stray. It's a buyer-beware situation - you have to try out the pet and see. Most times the behavioral problem was the result of poor acclimation, training or attention. In other words, it's usually the fault of the previous owner, not the pet!

People who are looking for a particular breed should also be prepared for the care and maintenance of the animal. Longhaired cats or dogs are going to take a lot more maintenance. For example, old English sheepdogs are really neat looking when they're groomed, but they take a lot of work.

Generally, the animals at the shelter have had a physical examination by shelter employees in order to make potential owners aware of obvious defects. Regardless, it is still very important to take the animal to a veterinarian. A veterinary exam makes sure that the animal is healthy, and that it does not have any obvious medical conditions that need to be addressed. Adopted pets also need preventative health care procedures such as de-worming and vaccinations. Dogs should be tested for heartworm and cats should be tested for feline leukemia and FIV.

The goal of the veterinarian and the goal of the animal shelter is to unite people with the pet that best fits into their lifestyle and pet-rearing abilities. It's important for this to begin well to have a happy ending. With care, thought, and attention to details, the proper choice can offer a lifetime of happy times with your new friend.

How do you like the new format? If you have comments and/or suggestions, please drop me a line. If there are any articles you'd like to see in future issues, please let me know.

Be sure to welcome our new doc, Dr. Kevin Oppenheimer the next time you're at Harmony. He's happy to help you care for your dogs, cats, reptiles, ferrets, and pocket pets.

Hope your summer is fun and safe!

Warmest regards,
Mindy Cox, Editor