December 2002

IN THIS ISSUE:
• Holiday Season Pet Hazards
• Bronchoscopy - Viewing The Respiratory Tract
• Bonding With Your Cat
• Pet Experts Name PURRFECT Cities
• Antibiotics vs. Killer Bacteria
• Pet Rabbit Care - Part 1
• A Cinderella Story
• The Puppy DO List
• Eliminating Dog Odor
• Top 10 Things Cats Do When No One is Watching
• Holiday Surprise: Bake Your Pet a Bone
• Holiday Gifts on Sale!
• Paws for Last Thoughts

Endoscopy is the ability to look inside the body, using a variety of very small cameras attached to either a flexible or rigid tube. The procedure allows the doctor to actually see within a body cavity or within a given organ. Directly viewing the interior of an organ is often very helpful in determining the cause of a problem and / or helpful in establishing a diagnosis.

The endoscope can also be used more aggressively to take biopsy samples or to perform minimally invasive surgery. This has the advantage of being less traumatic to the patient and allows for a faster recovery time.

In veterinary medicine, all endoscopy procedures are performed under general anesthesia. Due to the nature of endoscopy procedures, the amount and duration of anesthesia is much less than would be needed for a standard surgical procedure.

Bronchoscopy is the use of an endoscope to examine the throat and large airways inside the lungs. The scope used for this procedure is a long, flexible one, similar to that used for gastro-intestinal endoscopy, but much smaller in diameter. The small diameter tubing allows for better penetration through the small passageways of the lungs.

Bronchoscopy is an excellent technique for diagnosing infections and performing bacterial cultures of the lungs. It is also very useful for diagnosing many types of lung cancers, inflammatory processes, as well as to remove foreign objects that have been inhaled into the lungs.

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So you've added a pet cat to your family. Maybe you imagined yourself sitting down with a big furry Persian in front of the fireplace, petting him and listening to him purr. Or maybe you liked the idea of having a perky little tabby greet you at the door after your work day was finished. Perhaps it was the thought of a playful kitten waking you up in the morning.

Cats can be wonderful companions. But sometimes things don't work out exactly the way you thought they would. Maybe your new cat would rather rest on the chair at the other end of the room than lie down on the sofa next to you. Or perhaps your cat has even hissed at or scratched you when you tried to pick him up.

Often, when people don't live happily with their cats, it's because the pet owners didn't establish a good bonding when they first brought the kitty home.

Bonding is the first step toward successfully living with your cat. Bonding means creating a personal relationship between you and your pet. This includes mutual respect, trust and love. You are a special person to your cat, and your cat should be special to you."

It's important that each member of the household develops his or her own unique relationship with the family cat. The person who bathes, feeds and trains the cat may bond as a substitute mother. A child who plays with the cat may relate to him as a brother or sister, and the person who sits quietly with the cat on his or her lap and pets him may bond as a friend.

It's easiest to bond with a new kitten, but even if your cat is an adult and you've had him for several months or even years, it's still possible to strengthen the bond you have with him if you are willing to work at it.

Here are 10 suggestions for building a solid bond with your feline friend:

1. Include your cat in your daily activities. Invite your cat to be with you while you clean house, watch television, sort through the mail, work at the computer or read the newspaper. The more activities your cat observes you doing, the more he will trust you in all situations.

2. Talk often to your cat. Verbal communication is one of the most important aspects of bonding. Don't feel silly sitting down and talking to your cat. He may not understand the words you use, but he can understand a warm, friendly tone of voice.

   Use your cat's name often. This will grab his attention and establish a personal relationship between the two of you.

3. Get to know your cat's individual personality. Every cat is different; some are shy and independent, while others are outgoing and crave attention. Adapt your lifestyle to the particular personality of your cat. Try different behaviors on your cat and see what works. If you want your cat to be affectionate, you have to determine what you can do to make him act that way.

4. Provide a consistent daily routine. Cats don't like surprises. They feel safe and secure with a routine. Establish an acceptable daily schedule with your cat early in the relationship. Let him know how often and when to expect meals, walks on the leash and play sessions. Don't spend two hours a day with your cat one week and only a few minutes a day with him the following week.

   You also should be consistent with the behaviors you allow and don't allow. Don't yell "no" when he jumps on the counter today and then let it slide tomorrow. If you are inconsistent in how you interact with your cat, you will confuse him and he won't feel as though he can trust you.

5. Give a new cat plenty of privacy. When you bring a new cat into your home, you should give him a room of his own for two to four weeks. Sit in the room for an hour a day, reading or just relaxing, but don't force the cat to interact with you. Make yourself available, but let your cat be the one to make the first move.

   If your cat starts walking toward you, put some catnip or other treat around your chair. This encourages the cat to move toward you. Never reach out to grab a frightened cat nor drag a cat out from under a chair.

   It's important that you respect your cat's fears and inhibitions. Remind yourself that he is in a new environment. Go especially slow with an older, adopted cat who may have been a stray. Give your cat time to see you're not a threat, and eventually he will leave himself open to develop a relationship with you.

6. Avoid harsh corrections. If your cat misbehaves, do not hit, holler or punish him. You can tell him "no," but do so only to stop unacceptable behavior. Don't yell or scream. You can use a squirt bottle or air horn to stop your cat from scratching your furniture or drapes, but be careful not to link yourself with the correction.

   Hide the squirt bottle as you spray. You want your cat to think the drapes have a life of their own, that the drapes did the squirting. If the cat thinks you did it, it may be harder to bond with him.

7. Provide frequent play and exercise. Play with your cat several times each day using tossed toys, fishing pole toys, rolled balls or other interactive cat toys. By playing with your cat and giving him things to do, you build a bond because the cat is thinking, 'when mom or dad is home, I have more fun.' This causes the cat to welcome you that much more. If you're a positive object in your cat's life, he's going to seek you out.

   Avoid tug-of-war and other games that encourage aggressive behavior. Resist the temptation to roll your cat on his back and rub his tummy. When you do that, you encourage the cat to use his claws and teeth on your hands. It seems like that's a lot of fun, but cats get overexcited and can become quite aggressive as a result.

8. Touch with affection. Show your cat you care about him - stroke his fur, pat his head, scratch behind his ears, even gently squeeze his paws. Physical contact is a wonderful way to make your cat feel loved. However, avoid quick, jerky movements that might startle him.

9. Hold your cat securely. Pick up your cat firmly, but gently, supporting his entire body. If you let his limbs dangle, he will resist and may struggle or bite you.

   Hold your cat by sliding your right hand between his front legs and around his upper body. Put your left hand under his rear end and around the outside of his body, pulling him into you so he feels secure. You want your cat to trust you; you don't want him to feel as though you're going to drop him.

10. Give your cat the time he needs. Some people buy a cat and want a best friend immediately. Bonding is not automatic. It may take a couple of weeks to bond with a kitten and several months to bond with an older cat. Having a strong bond with your cat takes time. Go slowly and don't expect too much too fast.

You will have both good and bad days with your cat. Like people, now and then cats get grumpy, Be patient and understanding. Treat your cat as a good friend and sooner than later, he'll be one.

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This is Part I in a series of articles on caring for rabbits. Look for additional featured articles in upcoming issues of our Newsletter.

Rabbits make intelligent, friendly and quiet house pets. The average life span for a bunny is 7 to 10 years with records of up to 15 years of age being reported. The following information is designed to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life with him or her.

Your rabbit's diet is critical to a healthy pet.

Rabbit Pellets: A good quality rabbit pellet may be offered daily but in limited quantities. The UNCONTROLLED feeding of a pelleted diet can lead to obesity, heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, and kidney disease which results from the high concentration of carbohydrates, low fiber and high calcium levels in the pellets. Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18% or more), and that you buy small quantities. Oxbow Hay Company sells very reasonable, high fiber pellets. You can find them on the web. Keep the pellets refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets can cause a rabbit to stop eating.

The following chart shows DAILY AMOUNTS to be fed to your bunny. DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL even if the pellets are all eaten before the next day. OVERFEEDING OF PELLETS IS THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE OF HEALTH PROBLEMS THAT WE SEE. Keep your rabbit healthy by not overdoing it!

*Rabbits up to 8 months of age can have access to pellets free choice, because they are still growing rapidly. However, after 8 months of age they should receive the following maintenance diet.

2-4 lb. of body weight - 1/8 cup daily 5-7 lb. of body weight - 1/4 cup daily 8-10 lb. of body weight - 1/2 cup daily 11 - 15 lb of body weight - 3/4 cup daily

*Please note that these food amounts are for the maintenance of the non-breeding, mature house rabbit. If you intend to breed your pet, then we suggest increasing the daily pellet amounts by 1/4 cup during the breeding season. For does that are nursing babies, the pellets should be increased over a 4 - 5 day period to free-choice until the babies are weaned. After the breeding period is over, resume feeding at the maintenance levels as listed above.

In some situations, your veterinarian may recommend that pellets should be removed totally from the diet. Do not become alarmed because your pet will be able to receive all the nutrients necessary from the hay and fresh foods that you will be instructed to feed. (This is commonly the treatment suggested by our hospital for very overweight bunnies that need to lose weight safely).

*Avoid pellets with dried vegetables and fruits. These are NOT HEALTHY for bunnies.

Hay: TIMOTHY, ORCHARD, OR OTHER GRASS HAY (but NOT ALFALFA) SHOULD BE OFFERED DAILY IN UNLIMITED AMOUNTS. It is important that hay be available at all times for your pet. In fact, 90% of your bunny's diet should consist of hay! Rabbits tend to eat small amounts of food frequently throughout the day and withholding hay for long periods of time can lead to intestinal upsets.

We prefer the loose, long strands of hay, as opposed to the pressed cubes or chopped hay. The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal digestion and for the prevention of hairballs. Hay also contains proteins and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet. We no longer recommend the use of alfalfa hay, particularly if it is being used along with pellets (which are already high in alfalfa), because it may provide too much calcium and extra carbohydrates, which may lead to serious health problems, and digestive upsets. If the rabbit is on a no pellet diet, then alfalfa hay may be used unlimited, but weight loss may be more difficult to achieve.

Check with your local pet stores for timothy hay or other types of grass hay. They can be purchased on the web at Oxbow Hay Company. Also check with local feed stores and horse barns, because many of these places will sell you a "flake" of hay off a bale at a very nominal cost. Hay should be stored in a cool, dry place with good air circulation (don't close it tightly in a plastic bag). Discard wet or damp hay, or any hay that does not have a "fresh" smell. The best way to offer the hay is to use a hayrack on the outside of the cage. Your pet can pull the hay into the cage through the bars, as he or she needs it. This keeps the hay clean and eliminates much of the waste.

At certain times of the year and in certain locations, it may be difficult to obtain grass hay. At these times it is okay to use hays mixed with alfalfa, or use strictly alfalfa hay for a short period of time. The most important thing is to ALWAYS HAVE HAY AVAILABLE TO THE PET. Remember, we are restricting the pellets, and the hay is a major source of fiber and nutrients.

Fresh Foods: These foods should be given daily. Rabbits in the wild eat primarily tough, fibrous leaves, bark and other difficult to digest plants. Their digestive tract functions best when it has the most work to do in breaking down cellulose. If your pet is not used to getting any fresh foods, then start out gradually with the green leafy veggies and add a new food item from the list every 5-7 days. If the addition of any item leads to diarrhea or unformed stools in 24 to 48 hours, then remove it from the diet.

Young bunnies should also be introduced to new foods gradually. However, once your pet is eating these foods, try to give at least 3 types daily. We find that the addition of these fresh fibrous foods helps (along with the hay) in the prevention of hairballs and other digestive upsets, plus your bunny will love you for it!

The following are all foods that you can try on your pet. The total amount of fresh food that can be given daily (once your pet has been gradually introduced to it as described above) is about 1 heaping cup per 5 pounds of body weight.

Carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (these are excellent, but no pesticides, please), kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, (don't give light colored leaf lettuce or iceberg lettuce), parsley, clover, cabbage, broccoli (don't forget the leaves), carrot, green peppers, pea pods (the flat edible kind), brussels sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, radicchio, bok choy and spinach.

Try to feed at least 3 different types of greens daily. Feeding just one type of green food only (especially broccoli, cabbage, brussels sprouts and spinach) may lead to nutrient imbalances.

Treat Foods: In a small amount, you can give one of these "treat" foods daily, (give about 1 level tablespoon per 5 lbs. of body weight) - strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple, pear, melon, raspberries, peach, pear or dried whole grain bread.

One can alternately give 1 level teaspoon per 5 pounds body weight of banana or dried fruit.

*WE DO NOT RECOMMEND GIVING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING FOODS ROUTINELY BECAUSE OF THEIR POTENTIAL FOR CAUSING DIETARY UPSET AND OBESITY: Salty or sugary snacks, nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereals, and other grains (including oatmeal and corn). AVOID CRACKERS AND BREAD TYPE PRODUCTS.

Water: This should always be available and changed daily. A dirty water container can breed bacteria that can cause disease. The container can be either a water bottle or heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over. Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, because your pet may not drink if the taste or color is altered.

Vitamins: These are not felt to be necessary if the rabbit is getting pellets, hay and fresh foods in the diet. In fact, the indiscriminate use of vitamins may lead to over dosage and serious disease.

Salt or Mineral Block: Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet. You may want to have one available for those animals kept outdoors in warm climates and for breeding animals. (We do not recommend keeping pet rabbits outdoors.)

Night Droppings: It may seem strange to list this as a part of the diet, but these "special droppings" are an essential part of your pet's nutrition. During certain times of the day, usually in the evening, you may observe your pet licking the anal area and actually eating some of the droppings in the process.

These cecal (we are not confusing this with the word fecal) pellets are softer, greener, and have a stronger odor than the normal hard, dry round waste droppings. Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and will take care of eating them himself. These cecal pellets come from the cecum, which is the part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place, and they are rich in vitamins and nutrients, which are needed by your pet to maintain good health. After eating these "vitamin pellets" he will redigest this material and extract all the necessary nutrients. This habit may appear distasteful to us, but it is normal and important for your pet.

Occasionally, a rabbit will drop these cecal pellets along with the waste pellets instead of eating them. They will be soft, brighter green, come in clumps and are misshapen, but formed and have an odor. This is not considered diarrhea, and if it only occurs occasionally; it is not considered a disease problem.

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Cinderella is now 75 years old. After a fulfilling life with the now dead Prince, she happily sits upon her rocking chair, watching the world go by from her front porch, with a cat named Bob for companionship. One sunny afternoon, out of nowhere, appeared the Fairy Godmother.

Cinderella said, "Fairy Godmother, what are you doing here after all these years?"

The Fairy godmother replied, "Cinderella, you have lived an exemplary life since I last saw you. Is there anything for which your heart still yearns?"

Cinderella was taken aback, overjoyed, and after some thoughtful consideration, and almost under her breath she uttered her first wish:

"I wish I were wealthy beyond comprehension. "Instantly, her rocking chair was turned into solid gold. Cinderella was stunned. Bob, her old faithful cat, jumped off her lap and scampered to the edge of the porch, quivering with fear. Cinderella said, "Oh thank you, Fairy Godmother."

The Fairy Godmother replied "It is the least I can do. What does your heart want for your second wish? "

Cinderella looked down at her frail body, and said: "I wish I were young and full of the beauty of youth again."

At once, her wish became reality, and her beautiful youthful visage returned. Cinderella felt stirrings inside her that had been dormant for years. A long-forgotten vigor and vitality began to course through her.

When the Fairy Godmother again spoke "You have one more wish, what shall you have?"

Cinderella looks over to the frightened cat in the corner and says, "I wish for you to transform Bob, my old cat, into a kind and handsome young man."

Magically, Bob suddenly underwent so fundamental a change in his biological make-up that, when complete, he stood before her, a man so beautiful the likes of which neither she nor the world had ever seen.

The Fairy Godmother again spoke, "Congratulations, Cinderella. Enjoy your new life."

And, with a blazing shock of bright blue electricity, she was gone.

For a few eerie moments, Bob and Cinderella looked into each others eyes. Cinderella sat, breathless, gazing at the most stunningly perfect man she had ever seen. Then Bob walked over to Cinderella, who sat transfixed in her rocking chair, and held her close in his young muscular arms. He leaned in close, blowing her golden hair with his warm breath as he whispered:

........ "Bet you're sorry you neutered me now.. "

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Holiday season adornments are attractive to all creatures. The ornaments, foods, gifts, wrappings, ribbons, lights, and plants are all curiosities for pets. Pets will investigate new items by sniffing, tossing, chasing, and finally by having a taste. A few precautions will help you avoid the holiday crowds at the animal hospital.

The number one problem seen by veterinarians this time of year is stomach or intestinal disturbances caused by pets eating the holiday feast or other novelties. Scraps from the table can cause gastrointestinal upset and even predispose pets to life-threatening pancreatitis. Bones can get stuck in the mouth or perforate the intestinal tract and should not be fed. Chocolate is poisonous to cats, dogs, and birds. Plastic wrap and aluminum foil coated with good-tasting juices are enticing but can cause intestinal obstruction and impaction if eaten by the pet.

Be sure leftovers and wrappers are properly disposed of. Keep pets on their usual diet. Treats formulated similarly to the pet's regular diet are healthy and safe. Also, keep in mind while cooking, that pets may not understand that stoves get very hot. Keep pets away so they don't get burned or get hot foods spilled on them.

Several decorative plants are poisonous. Mistletoe and holly can cause stomach upset leading to vomiting and diarrhea. The berries of these plants are attractive, easily swallowed, and potentially fatal if consumed. Poinsettias, like the leaves of most any plant, can also cause stomach upset. It is best to keep holiday plants out of your pet's reach.

Be sure Christmas trees are secured so that pets cannot pull them over. Omit preservatives from the tree-stand water and cover the water so pets don't drink it. Don't spray snow on the tree unless it is labeled for pet consumption. Angel hair is spun glass and is very irritating to both the inside and outside of your pet. Even glass ornaments and ornament hooks have been chewed and swallowed.

Low-hanging ornaments are a real temptation, as are tinsel and electric lights. Decorative lights and electrical wiring can cause shock and / or burns when chewed, so remember to unplug holiday lights when pets are unattended.

There are lots of activities during the holiday season. Be sure doors are not left open as guests come and go. Indoor pets inadvertently left outside could be injured by frostbite, other animals or hit by cars. Ice-melting chemicals and salt on sidewalks and roads can severely burn footpads and should be washed off right away. Watch that guests don't leave interesting objects such as chocolate, ribbons, stocking stuffers, or other illicit treats, within your pet's reach. In order to prevent accidents, it's sometimes best to put your pet in a separate area.

Don't leave wrapped gifts under the tree with an unsupervised pet; the wrapping, ribbon and enclosed gift are probably not compatible with your pet's digestive system. Ask Santa to put gifts out of your pet's reach so your pet won't beat you to them on Christmas morning.

When choosing a gift for your pet, consider the pet as an individual. Cats enjoy lightweight toys they can bat around -- catnip toys, scratching posts, and kitty perches. Dogs like balls, chew toys, and things they can carry around. However, beware of toys with parts, such as bells, buttons, string, yarn, or squeaky parts that can be detached and swallowed. Watch how your pet handles a new toy until you are sure it is safe. Some dogs treat a stuffed toy like a friend and carry it around and sleep with it. Others will tear it up and eat the stuffing. Also, if there is more than one pet in the household, consider all the pets before buying for any one of them. A one-inch diameter toy for a cat is fine, but for a puppy, it may require surgery to remove it from the stomach.

If your pet does get sick, consult your veterinarian before giving any medications. Many of the over-the-counter drugs (such as Tylenol) are toxic for animals even though they are safe for us. Don't wait to see if your pet gets better. If your pet is acting sick, consult your veterinarian.

Click here for more on Holiday Hazards.
and Toxic Plants and Foods

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A Consortium of leaders in the pet health and welfare community announced the first-ever list of the Pet Healthiest Cities in the U.S. These cities exemplify superior care, services and legislation for pets' health and well-being. According to the Consortium, the Pet Healthiest Cities are:

When bacteria invade the body, a bacterial Infection is present. Often, the bacteria are removed by our own immune system before there are any obvious signs of disease. But if bacteria multiply faster than our immune system can destroy them, an infectious disease develops. An infectious disease is treated by drugs that harm the bacteria - either by killing them or by preventing them from multiplying - without harming the host (animals). These drugs are called antibiotics.

Many people simply use the term antibiotics to apply to the broad group of drugs that prevent the spread of or kill microorganisms. Sometimes, though, a finer distinction is made. An antimicrobial is a drug that kills (or inhibits the multiplication of) microbes or microorganisms. Bacteria, fungi, viruses, and protozoa are all microbes. Antibiotics, however, kill only bacteria. They have no effect on viral or fungal disease.

An antibiotic such as penicillin, is bactericidal. This type of antibiotic kills bacteria. A bacteriostatic antibiotic, such as tetracycline and erythromycin, stops the bacteria from multiplying. After the invading bacteria stops multiplying, the body's natural defenses usually kills the existing bacteria.

The discovery and development of antibiotic drugs are two of the most important therapeutic advances of the twentieth century. Penicillin was discovered by Alexander Fleming in 1929, and was introduced into clinical use in 1940. Fleming was awarded the Nobel prize in 1945 for this discovery. Since then, antibiotics have dramatically changed the course of many illnesses (both in humans and in animals) from almost certain death to little more than an inconvenience.

The problem of resistance to antibiotics is very serious. Very often, an animal is treated successfully with amoxicillin (the most commonly-prescribed small animal veterinary drug in the United States) on three separate occasions for three different infections. Then, amoxicillin doesn't work for the fourth infection. Since different antibiotics have different spectra of activity (only work on certain bacteria), this particular bacteria may not be sensitive to amoxicillin.

Another problem with antibiotic resistance occurs when an animal is treated for the same infection several different times with the same antibiotic. The antibiotic works perfectly during the first 2 or 3 episodes, then on the fourth episode, it fails to work. The most likely reason for this is that the organism has become resistant to that particular antibiotic.

Bacteria become resistant to some antibiotics through genetic mutations, which are then passed on to succeeding generations of bacteria. Amoxicillin is ineffective against infections from staphylococci, for example, because those organisms have developed resistance to the entire group of penicillin-type antibiotics (called beta-lactamins), including amoxicillin. These bacteria produce an enzyme, penicillinase, which changes the structure of the drug and makes it inactive. This is an example of bacteria developing resistance to antibiotics by inactivating the drug via specific enzymes. There are other mechanisms by which bacteria become resistant to antibiotics. These include alterations in the bacterial target enzyme as well as changes in the ability of the drugs to accumulate in or on the bacteria.

Here are some important things to remember when your pet is taking antibiotics:

1. Antibiotics need to be given at specific times. Even though it may be difficult to give a medication every six or eight hours, it is necessary in order for these medications to work properly.

2. Antibiotics need to be given for a particular duration. During the first few days on the antibiotic, our pet usually feels much better. The antibiotic zaps most of the bacteria; however, there are usually still some bacteria left in their system. At this point, if the medicine is discontinued, the surviving bacteria quickly grow and multiply, and may overwhelm our pet once again. Continuing the medication for the full course usually prevents this from occurring.

3. Antibiotics need to be stored properly so that they do not lose their effectiveness. Some call for refrigeration; especially those that are liquids. Also, be sure to shake liquid formulas before administering them.

4. It is crucial that you do not begin to give antibiotics to your pet without first talking to your veterinarian.

5. As a general rule, antibiotics are very safe and have few side effects. Loss of appetite, upset stomach, vomiting and diarrhea are the side effects most commonly encountered.

6. Occasionally, an animal will develop an allergic reaction to an antibiotic. This usually occurs within the first 30 minutes after administration. Severe allergic reactions - panting heavily, difficulty breathing, intense vomiting or diarrhea, seizures or lethargy - are emergencies and should immediately be seen by a veterinarian.

If you have any questions regarding an antibiotic or any medication, please contact a staff member at your veterinary hospital.

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DO begin basic obedience training early and consistently to avoid bad habits later on. We strongly recommend that you enroll your puppy in obedience classes. These excellent programs can be found through your breeder, pet shop or local humane society.

Do let your puppy explore the surrounding neighborhood with you while he is on a leash. Also, use this period to condition your pup to a variety of common noises, such as the doorbell, dishwasher, electric blender, vacuum, etc.

Do socialize your puppy with people. When the doorbell rings, bring your puppy to the door on a leash. Have your friends crouch down to greet your puppy — its much less frightening than a person standing up.

Do take your puppy on short car trips, using a portable crate or having a friend stay in the back seat with your puppy. Keep trips short so your puppy does not get sick, and follow each outing with a short play period to associate the car with a pleasant experience.

DO find a veterinarian with whom you're comfortable, and take your puppy to see him or her soon after you bring your puppy home. Your puppy will need vaccines and proper medical attention to ensure his healthy growth and development.

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Aside from an accumulation of dirt, a persistent and unpleasant doggie odor could be caused by many factors. Some of these factors include dental disease, ear infections and oily skin.

A closer look at your dog may help you find the problem.

Look in your dog's mouth.
Are the teeth discolored?
Do you smell more than the usual "doggie breath?"
If so, a visit to the veterinarian for a dental checkup and treatment may be in order. During your visit, your veterinarian may explain how you can clean your dog's teeth, in order to help protect against future dental disease.

Ear infections are frequently the cause of an offensive odor, especially among long-eared and floppy-eared dogs. The inside of the ear becomes moist and hot, providing the perfect environment for infections. Take a close look inside your dog's ears. Is the skin red and sore? Does the dog cry out in pain as you try to examine the ears? Does the ear canal have a bad odor? Any of these may be warning signs of an ear infection which should be treated by a veterinarian.

Do you feel a slight greasiness on your hands after you pet your dog? This may be an indication of seborrhea, a common skin disorder in dogs. These dogs have excess production of sebum, a normal product of the skin glands. The result can be flaky dandruff or an oily, waxy feel to the hair coat and a strong odor. Seborrhea may also dispose a dog to skin and ear infections. Frequent bathing with a medicated shampoo recommended by your veterinarian can help prevent much of the odor.

One other possibility for your dog's odor may be its rear end. Infection or improper emptying of the anal glands can cause odor and discomfort to the dog and a trip to the veterinarian is in order. Longhaired dogs sometimes have a soiled rear from defecating. Without daily brushing, the rear can become matted and smelly. Monthly clipping around the rear end helps, as do daily brushing and grooming.

Once you have investigated the cause of your dog's odor you can begin to help control it. Enlist the aid of your veterinarian in identifying the problem, treating it if necessary, and controlling it in the future. Never forget the importance of grooming on a regular basis. It is essential to keep a haircoat healthy by removing scale, dirt and dead hair; distributing the natural oils throughout the coat and preventing mats and tangles in long hair.

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10. Report back to the Home Planet that the invasion plans are proceeding as scheduled and that operation BAD DOG should commence shortly.

9. Pick their noses, just like everyone else.

8. Carefully monitor all traffic patterns between bedroom and bathroom. Determine strategically perfect location for hairball. Wait until 3am.

7. Work on their translation of the Dead Sea Scrolls.

6. Practice leaping from the ottoman to the bookshelf so it looks graceful and natural when they do it for an "audience."

5. Clean all of their non-embarrassing body parts.

4. Check that the pin-hole in the water bed is still oozing slowly.

3. Quickly rub the top of the paw in some dirt, so they have an excuse to spend another half-hour licking it clean.

2. Transfer dog droppings from the yard to the living room carpet.

and the Number 1 Thing Cats Do When No One is Watching...
1. Strut and pose in front of a full-length mirror wearing a dog collar and leash.

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Form the dough into a ball and knead on a floured board for five minutes. Divide the ball in half and roll each portion until 1/2 inch thick. Use a cookie cutter or shape your own biscuits.

Put six biscuits on a plate and microwave at medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or until firm and dry to the touch. Rotate plate every two minutes and turn biscuits over after half the cooking time.

• 2 c flour
• 1 c wheat germ
• 1/2 c cooked, chopped chicken livers
• 3 T vegetable oil
• 1 egg, slightly beaten
• 2 T chopped parsley

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I hope you've enjoyed this month's articles. If you have comments and/or suggestions, please contact me. What pet concerns and interests would you like to see addressed in future issues?

Meet our newest doctor, Dr. Leah Dial . You'll find her to be warm, and compassionate toward you and your pets. We're pleased to have her as part of Team Harmony.

Puppies are warm, wonderful companions. You may have recently been blessed with one of these soft, bundles of joy. You want to raise your furry friend just right to bond you both for life. One way to do that is to sign him or her up for Puppy Kindergarten. You'll learn about puppy behavior, early training, and you'll both have fun with one of the most imortant early aspects of a puppies life: socializing with other puppies and people. Find out more.

If you're a client at Harmony, don't forget that there are services on our website to make certain aspects of pet care easier for you. You can request services such as prescription refills, boarding reservations, and medical appointments. Please look over our section just for clients.

From everyone at Harmony, our best wishes for a happy and healthy holiday season.
Fleas Navidog and Happy Mew Year!

Warmest regards,
Mindy Cox, Editor